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Levi’s® x HYPEBEAST Denim Canvas Project
Hypebeast X Levi’s denim canvas project aims to intersect two unique creatives each with an unwavering passion, whether it be fashion, art or design.
Having never met before, the guys at Levi’s have asked two creative talents to engage in a lively collaboration to customize an iconic Levi’s piece in this unique project in association with Hypebeast.
Their first pairing is with artist Aaron De La Crus and quilter Maura Ambrose. Aaron is an artist and designer based out of San Fransisco who has created a cult following surrounding his linear paintings. Maura comes from a traditional and hand-crafted background and has an artisanal approach to design and quilting. Maura started her own business creating hand-crafted quilts named folk fibers based in Texas. They both embarked on reworking the classic Levi’s western shirt: Maura taking elements of her traditional craft skills by hand stitching, while Aaron drew stitch lines in his iconic linear manner. The isolated drawing was hand-stitched using Japanese Sashiko thread and stitch techniques, which created a truly decorative, detailed and hand-crafted piece with a fine art influence.
Levi’s X Hypebeast’s second pairing is with accessory designer Richard Liu of DSPTCH based out of San Francisco and fellow accessory designer Alice Saunders of Forestbound based in Boston. Richard’s design aesthetic is taken from functionality and everyday users while Alice takes inspiration from historic and vintage well-worn, utilitarian fabrics. They both have a affection for durability so they decided to rework the classic trucker jacket into something functional, incorporating vintage military durable fabrics but still keeping its iconic sensibilities. Mixing vintage fabrics from Alice and modern trims from Richard, they used both their backgrounds to create an item that truly looks like a Levi’s product but with a fresh personality.
Levi’s X Hypebeast’s final pairing is with Jay Palmer who is from Tangleblue textile consultancy based in San Francisco and Miguel or “Miggy” who is the co-founder of U.S. Alterations based in Los Angeles. Miggy has a long history of being an integral part of the local fashion and cultural scene of Los Angeles. He is hugely involved in the foundation of the Los Angeles’s De La Barracuda. Jay Palmers background is in artisanal, hand-woven textiles using traditional methods and looms. They were both excited to be collaborate and re-work the classic 501 jean. Jay interestingly presented some hand-woven fabrics literately made from recycled and cut up Levi’s jeans whilst Miggy was determined not to loose the integrity of the classic jean but wanted to add a punk-rock element. They created a jean that had hand-crafted, D.I.Y elements but also possessed a punk rock feeling.
Hypebeast X Levi’s denim canvas project aims to intersect two unique creatives each with an unwavering passion, whether it be fashion, art or design.
Having never met before, the guys at Levi’s have asked two creative talents to engage in a lively collaboration to customize an iconic Levi’s piece in this unique project in association with Hypebeast.
Their first pairing is with artist Aaron De La Crus and quilter Maura Ambrose. Aaron is an artist and designer based out of San Fransisco who has created a cult following surrounding his linear paintings. Maura comes from a traditional and hand-crafted background and has an artisanal approach to design and quilting. Maura started her own business creating hand-crafted quilts named folk fibers based in Texas. They both embarked on reworking the classic Levi’s western shirt: Maura taking elements of her traditional craft skills by hand stitching, while Aaron drew stitch lines in his iconic linear manner. The isolated drawing was hand-stitched using Japanese Sashiko thread and stitch techniques, which created a truly decorative, detailed and hand-crafted piece with a fine art influence.
Levi’s X Hypebeast’s second pairing is with accessory designer Richard Liu of DSPTCH based out of San Francisco and fellow accessory designer Alice Saunders of Forestbound based in Boston. Richard’s design aesthetic is taken from functionality and everyday users while Alice takes inspiration from historic and vintage well-worn, utilitarian fabrics. They both have a affection for durability so they decided to rework the classic trucker jacket into something functional, incorporating vintage military durable fabrics but still keeping its iconic sensibilities. Mixing vintage fabrics from Alice and modern trims from Richard, they used both their backgrounds to create an item that truly looks like a Levi’s product but with a fresh personality.
Levi’s X Hypebeast’s final pairing is with Jay Palmer who is from Tangleblue textile consultancy based in San Francisco and Miguel or “Miggy” who is the co-founder of U.S. Alterations based in Los Angeles. Miggy has a long history of being an integral part of the local fashion and cultural scene of Los Angeles. He is hugely involved in the foundation of the Los Angeles’s De La Barracuda. Jay Palmers background is in artisanal, hand-woven textiles using traditional methods and looms. They were both excited to be collaborate and re-work the classic 501 jean. Jay interestingly presented some hand-woven fabrics literately made from recycled and cut up Levi’s jeans whilst Miggy was determined not to loose the integrity of the classic jean but wanted to add a punk-rock element. They created a jean that had hand-crafted, D.I.Y elements but also possessed a punk rock feeling.
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Madrid Denim S/S 14 Runway Highlights
While the dust may have settled over the major international Fashion Weeks, we turn our attention to some of the smaller cities. Today we look to the Madrid runway shows which delivered a number of denim heavy collections that showcased some directional indigo themes.
One of Madrid’s most recognised designers, Juanjo Oliva created a ladylike and formal dress sense for his S/S 14 collection. Strong, linear and exaggerated silhouettes brought an elegant aesthetic to his line with oversized buttons and workwear pocket detailing lending a retro feel. Raw denims added a polished and structured finish to key items like cinched mini dresses, cropped flares and bell shaped jackets.
After receiving the L’Oréal “Best Collection” award for her F/W 2013 line, Teresa Helbig created yet another great contemporary collection for S/S 14. The looks were ultra feminine and refined with a clinical edge. There was a mixture of minimal separates and ultra flow-y long line dresses. The clinical romper, basic tee and the two-piece bralette combo were the stand out pieces of the collection. Fabrics were glossy, unwashed and raw, which all added to the sophisticated touches in the line.
Carlos Diaz
Madrid local Carlos Diaz took a ’90s approach for S/S 14 turning to the iconic acid smiley for print direction. The grinning face appeared as allover prints in varied scales across matched sets. Reworked monochrome palettes in gunmetal and saturated blacks were overlaid on oversized tees, slouchy pants and bomber jackets to create a contemporary streetwear edge.
Design duo María Rosendfelt and Jacobo Salvador looked to a clean and clinical aesthetic to showcase their selections of denims this season. Silhouettes balanced between the structured and unstructured with technical tailoring and concept cuts giving way to edgy shapes. Slouchy track pants and boxy board shorts channeled a urban ’90s theme (as seen on Kenzo and Marques Almeida runways) with perfectly frayed edges and synthetic indigo shades injecting texture and dimension.
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We Love: The Italian Job
We were really impressed with their innovative finishing processes and forward-thinking technology… and of course, with over 25 years experience in the industry, they are a force to be reckoned with in the world of denim laundry.
For those not familiar with Garmon Chemicals, think of them as the suppliers to the suppliers. Much likeJeanologia supply laundries with laser machinery, Garmon is a laboratory working on future processes and techniques to fuel top wash houses around the globe.
The Italian job Srl (TIJ) is a design studio owned by Garmon Chemical, focusing solely on experimentation and chemistry and applying it to the finishing of casual garments, particularly denim. By creating this segment to their business, TIJ is able to create inspirational finished products to inspire clients and help them direct and develop their ranges. We have noticed this shift in the market over recent seasons: as designers’ research time and resources are cut, they require more and more input from their suppliers to realize their vision.
Alberto De Conti, the general manager of the Italian Job told us they are just starting work on surface design for F/W 15, as their clients (the wash houses, mills and laundries) are putting S/S 15 to bed and will be shortly looking forward to the new season. They need to be several steps ahead of the trend curve to compete in this fast-pace market.
We were particularly impressed with a few of their exciting new developments in July, including their fixing agent which, after being applied to denim, resists color-loss and fading, therefore enabling a graphic new take on the color-block trend. They have also been working on many innovative sustainable techniques as well as exploring special coatings that blacken with wear to create graphic, darkened whiskering.
Check out the below video for more:
We were really impressed with their innovative finishing processes and forward-thinking technology… and of course, with over 25 years experience in the industry, they are a force to be reckoned with in the world of denim laundry.
For those not familiar with Garmon Chemicals, think of them as the suppliers to the suppliers. Much likeJeanologia supply laundries with laser machinery, Garmon is a laboratory working on future processes and techniques to fuel top wash houses around the globe.
The Italian job Srl (TIJ) is a design studio owned by Garmon Chemical, focusing solely on experimentation and chemistry and applying it to the finishing of casual garments, particularly denim. By creating this segment to their business, TIJ is able to create inspirational finished products to inspire clients and help them direct and develop their ranges. We have noticed this shift in the market over recent seasons: as designers’ research time and resources are cut, they require more and more input from their suppliers to realize their vision.
Alberto De Conti, the general manager of the Italian Job told us they are just starting work on surface design for F/W 15, as their clients (the wash houses, mills and laundries) are putting S/S 15 to bed and will be shortly looking forward to the new season. They need to be several steps ahead of the trend curve to compete in this fast-pace market.
We were particularly impressed with a few of their exciting new developments in July, including their fixing agent which, after being applied to denim, resists color-loss and fading, therefore enabling a graphic new take on the color-block trend. They have also been working on many innovative sustainable techniques as well as exploring special coatings that blacken with wear to create graphic, darkened whiskering.
Check out the below video for more:
Insa x Evisu: The Extreme Daicock Jean
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We love Graffiti artist, INSA’s style and have been following his work for nearly 10 years now. This year he created L.A.’s biggest mural in the Downtown arts district, a live street art piece in Columbia, created limited edition women’s streetwear pieces with Makers LDN and even designer his own beer bottle for the Warsteiner Art Collection.
But his latest collaboration with Evisu really caught our attention today: if you like color, you’ll love these jeans.
He has explored two models: the theatrical and bold Daicock jean, available for guys and girls and a Gentleman’s raw denim jean. The Daicock jean features an amazing, multicolored paint drip concept and is limited to only 300 pairs and the Gentleman’s jean features a subtle, allover print on raw Japanese selvedge denim with multicolored printed lining, multicolored buttons, hardware and thread stitching.
“It’s a mix of fashion, fetish and art, pushing the idea of a commodity seen as a fetishized object – in this case, luxury denim – and using the fabric itself to express this, and referencing the style of traditional Shibari is a nod to Evisu’s Japanese heritage. It was a true pleasure to collaborate on the novelty piece with designer Alex Noble – I feel we both understand the sublimation of extreme fashion to artistic expression.”
Both are available at their new flagship store in Hong Kong as well as on the Evisu website. The male edition of the Daicock is priced at $539 USD and the female pair at $489 USD but the Gentleman’s jean clocks in at $729 and comes with an exclusive 100% silk scarf and a gold keychain.
We love Graffiti artist, INSA’s style and have been following his work for nearly 10 years now. This year he created L.A.’s biggest mural in the Downtown arts district, a live street art piece in Columbia, created limited edition women’s streetwear pieces with Makers LDN and even designer his own beer bottle for the Warsteiner Art Collection.
But his latest collaboration with Evisu really caught our attention today: if you like color, you’ll love these jeans.
He has explored two models: the theatrical and bold Daicock jean, available for guys and girls and a Gentleman’s raw denim jean. The Daicock jean features an amazing, multicolored paint drip concept and is limited to only 300 pairs and the Gentleman’s jean features a subtle, allover print on raw Japanese selvedge denim with multicolored printed lining, multicolored buttons, hardware and thread stitching.
“It’s a mix of fashion, fetish and art, pushing the idea of a commodity seen as a fetishized object – in this case, luxury denim – and using the fabric itself to express this, and referencing the style of traditional Shibari is a nod to Evisu’s Japanese heritage. It was a true pleasure to collaborate on the novelty piece with designer Alex Noble – I feel we both understand the sublimation of extreme fashion to artistic expression.”
Both are available at their new flagship store in Hong Kong as well as on the Evisu website. The male edition of the Daicock is priced at $539 USD and the female pair at $489 USD but the Gentleman’s jean clocks in at $729 and comes with an exclusive 100% silk scarf and a gold keychain.
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Tokyo Denim S/S 14 Runway Highlights Pt.1
Tokyo is always a hot bed of inspiration especially when it comes to denim, and last week was their seasonal fashion week so we’ve been scouring our extensive image library for denim inspiration. Denim is always pretty strong in Japan so there was so much to choose from! We will be bringing you part two of our round up tomorrow.
JNBY presented a very contemporary and minimal collection for S/S 14. Tencel was used heavily for bottoms, creating loose yet fluid silhouettes. Matte, sprayed surfaces combined with concept-cut seam detailing to give this collection a premium, womenswear feel. High/low wash effects in muted winter darks added depth and texture, further confirming the premium look.
The Japanese label Matohu’s collection had a sharp aesthetic; tonal color blocking formed the backbone of this premium, androgenous collection, and the deep indigo shades were highlighted with vibrant electric blue pops creating multi-tonal sharpness. Conversational prints added a playful element to the put-together looks. Silhouettes were long, lean and smart completing this collection of clean, city-ready denim.
Ne-Net lived up to their preppy and playful reputation once again for S/S 14. Unwashed, raw denim and chambray was complimented with clean, white top stitching to create a neo-workwear feel. Styling denim with gingham shirts, knit cardigans and sweater vests added a geeky undertone to the preppy casual vibe. Indigo color-blocking was also a stand-out look in this collection, but nodded to more traditional Japanese, boro techniques.
Another sharp collection from S/S14 Tokyo runways, Yoshio Kubo’s menswear offering was sharp and denim-centric. Floral printed bomber jackets and minimal car-coats were statement pieces. Large scale stripes and contrast fabric inserts gave the traditional tailored jacket a contemporary update, whilst pant fits mimicked nautical styling with loose silhouettes and lightweight, glossy fabrics.
Tokyo is always a hot bed of inspiration especially when it comes to denim, and last week was their seasonal fashion week so we’ve been scouring our extensive image library for denim inspiration. Denim is always pretty strong in Japan so there was so much to choose from! We will be bringing you part two of our round up tomorrow.
JNBY presented a very contemporary and minimal collection for S/S 14. Tencel was used heavily for bottoms, creating loose yet fluid silhouettes. Matte, sprayed surfaces combined with concept-cut seam detailing to give this collection a premium, womenswear feel. High/low wash effects in muted winter darks added depth and texture, further confirming the premium look.
The Japanese label Matohu’s collection had a sharp aesthetic; tonal color blocking formed the backbone of this premium, androgenous collection, and the deep indigo shades were highlighted with vibrant electric blue pops creating multi-tonal sharpness. Conversational prints added a playful element to the put-together looks. Silhouettes were long, lean and smart completing this collection of clean, city-ready denim.
Ne-Net lived up to their preppy and playful reputation once again for S/S 14. Unwashed, raw denim and chambray was complimented with clean, white top stitching to create a neo-workwear feel. Styling denim with gingham shirts, knit cardigans and sweater vests added a geeky undertone to the preppy casual vibe. Indigo color-blocking was also a stand-out look in this collection, but nodded to more traditional Japanese, boro techniques.
Another sharp collection from S/S14 Tokyo runways, Yoshio Kubo’s menswear offering was sharp and denim-centric. Floral printed bomber jackets and minimal car-coats were statement pieces. Large scale stripes and contrast fabric inserts gave the traditional tailored jacket a contemporary update, whilst pant fits mimicked nautical styling with loose silhouettes and lightweight, glossy fabrics.
Tokyo Denim S/S 14 Runway Highlights Pt. 2
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As mentioned before Tokyo is a great place for inspiration so we decided to run two posts covering our runway highlights from last week’s fashion week. Here is the continuation of our coverage.
Now in his 3rd collection since returning as head designer at DressCamp for S/S 13, Bunker graduate Toshikazu Iwaya brings back his signature use of color, print and unexpected silhouettes that launched the label onto the scene back in 2002. For S/S 14, Iwaya looked to denim as a base for the collection, re-proportioning items with exaggerated fits, elongated lengths and bold prints for a typical Tokyo street wear edge. This included a trucker jacket and a longline shirt dresses that were given a contemporary update with wide kimono sleeves. Texture and print came through thick and fast with lace overlays, fringed accents and gold foil leopard prints.
Facetasm has been continuously presented strong selections of streetwear driven collections since it arrived on the scene in 2007. Spring/Summer 2014 proved no different with the Tokyo based brand adding its contemporary touch to workwear, restyling aprons, trucker jackets and classic five-pocket styles. The designers looks to glossy indigos for a polished finish on more tailored items like oversized double breasted balzers, while matte black grounds were highlighted with contrast white stitching to bring an urban edge to the classic workwear aesthetic.
Designer Hiroshi Tanida created a tropical backdrop for his S/S 14 collection entitled “Votanica.” Denim reflected a balmy high-summer attitude tapping botanical imagery to inspire washed-out palm prints and repeat jacquards. Silhouettes drew inspiration from hotter climes: we particularly loved the longline and fluid shirts, reminiscent of traditional Indian men’s dress. Tonal textures updated lightweight powder-blue indigos, giving both jeans and jackets a contemporary aesthetic.
As mentioned before Tokyo is a great place for inspiration so we decided to run two posts covering our runway highlights from last week’s fashion week. Here is the continuation of our coverage.
Now in his 3rd collection since returning as head designer at DressCamp for S/S 13, Bunker graduate Toshikazu Iwaya brings back his signature use of color, print and unexpected silhouettes that launched the label onto the scene back in 2002. For S/S 14, Iwaya looked to denim as a base for the collection, re-proportioning items with exaggerated fits, elongated lengths and bold prints for a typical Tokyo street wear edge. This included a trucker jacket and a longline shirt dresses that were given a contemporary update with wide kimono sleeves. Texture and print came through thick and fast with lace overlays, fringed accents and gold foil leopard prints.
Facetasm has been continuously presented strong selections of streetwear driven collections since it arrived on the scene in 2007. Spring/Summer 2014 proved no different with the Tokyo based brand adding its contemporary touch to workwear, restyling aprons, trucker jackets and classic five-pocket styles. The designers looks to glossy indigos for a polished finish on more tailored items like oversized double breasted balzers, while matte black grounds were highlighted with contrast white stitching to bring an urban edge to the classic workwear aesthetic.
Designer Hiroshi Tanida created a tropical backdrop for his S/S 14 collection entitled “Votanica.” Denim reflected a balmy high-summer attitude tapping botanical imagery to inspire washed-out palm prints and repeat jacquards. Silhouettes drew inspiration from hotter climes: we particularly loved the longline and fluid shirts, reminiscent of traditional Indian men’s dress. Tonal textures updated lightweight powder-blue indigos, giving both jeans and jackets a contemporary aesthetic.
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Levi’s Made + Crafted x Joanna McClure Photo Assignments
We noticed these awesome images over on the Denim Hunters blog and thought they were worth sharing.Levi’s Made + Crafted launched a really interesting initiative earlier this summer called Photo Assignment: collaborating with a new and established American photographer each month, the brand gives the artist complete creative free reign to snap their M+C product however they interpret it.
This month’s photographer is Joanna McClure, an accomplished photographer based in New York. She focussed on the production and manufactoring side of jeanswear, taking inspiration from the strength and structure of a hard-wearing denim jean, as she explains:
“This project took on many iterations before reaching its final destination – given the task of shooting denim in any way that I wanted proved to be both a blessing and a curse! The options were unlimited, but in the end I decided to take a look at the process of how denim is actually made. I focused it down to a few things: construction, strength, and structure. What better way to express these qualities than to turn this great cloth into a sculpture – at once playful and strong.”
We love the images, they are contemporary, playful and striking, we’re looking forward to the following month’s. Check out the Made + Crafted site for some of the other collaborations.
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Tokyo: Warehouse x Heller’s Cafe
The DDD has been a little bit quiet over the last few days; this is because we’ve been out in Tokyo street-shooting, researching and soaking up the indigo inspiration. On Tuesday of last week, we flew into Tokyo at 10 am and went straight to the Warehouse x Heller’s Cafe presentation in Ebisu, in a bid to fend off our jet-lag!
This ongoing collaboration started in 2008 and always includes some inspirational and artisanal items, being that its a meeting of minds between arguably the most high-quality Japanese denim brand and the most well-regarded vintage dealer in the US! We were very lucky to attend, in that representatives from both companies were present: Larry McKaughan, founder of Heller’s, and Kenichi and Kouji, founders and twin brothers ofWarehouse denim.
The collection included some fantastic pieces, including all the expected vintage inspired workwear items such as turn-of-the-century chore jackets, overalls and cinch-back utility pants. But stand-out garments included a beautiful, twisted yarn half-placket shirt with amazing removable collar and cuffs: an unusual design detail to come across in tact on such an old garment, Larry proudly revealed to us. Jackets were particularly strong: a cut-away collar, Type I inspired blouson jacket with pleat front detail and a fabulous leather trucker were stand-out as well as a summer-weight railroad jacket, also in twisted yarn but overdyed in indigo and a hand-sketched, baseball chore in unbleached cotton.
Needless to say, there was a real buzz at the event and major players from the Asian denim world attended including the Lightning team in full force and Benny Seki from Take 5 Hong Kong. We’d love to tell you more about the collection but being straight off a 12 hour flight, its all a bit hazy! All we can say is denim fans will be very impressed with this, their largest collection to date.
The DDD has been a little bit quiet over the last few days; this is because we’ve been out in Tokyo street-shooting, researching and soaking up the indigo inspiration. On Tuesday of last week, we flew into Tokyo at 10 am and went straight to the Warehouse x Heller’s Cafe presentation in Ebisu, in a bid to fend off our jet-lag!
This ongoing collaboration started in 2008 and always includes some inspirational and artisanal items, being that its a meeting of minds between arguably the most high-quality Japanese denim brand and the most well-regarded vintage dealer in the US! We were very lucky to attend, in that representatives from both companies were present: Larry McKaughan, founder of Heller’s, and Kenichi and Kouji, founders and twin brothers ofWarehouse denim.
The collection included some fantastic pieces, including all the expected vintage inspired workwear items such as turn-of-the-century chore jackets, overalls and cinch-back utility pants. But stand-out garments included a beautiful, twisted yarn half-placket shirt with amazing removable collar and cuffs: an unusual design detail to come across in tact on such an old garment, Larry proudly revealed to us. Jackets were particularly strong: a cut-away collar, Type I inspired blouson jacket with pleat front detail and a fabulous leather trucker were stand-out as well as a summer-weight railroad jacket, also in twisted yarn but overdyed in indigo and a hand-sketched, baseball chore in unbleached cotton.
Needless to say, there was a real buzz at the event and major players from the Asian denim world attended including the Lightning team in full force and Benny Seki from Take 5 Hong Kong. We’d love to tell you more about the collection but being straight off a 12 hour flight, its all a bit hazy! All we can say is denim fans will be very impressed with this, their largest collection to date.
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New York: BPD Wash House Tour
BPD Wash House, a full service denim development and consulting studio in Jersey City, NJ. Since we were in Manhattan, we hopped on the train and headed out there to take a tour of the plant and speak with one of their denim specialists about their laundry services.
Blueprint Denim (BPD) Wash House has been in the jeanswear laundry business for well over 10 years. As the east coasts only full service denim development studio, the company has attracted some of the most prestigious designer and mass market names from in and around New York to use their laundry and consultancy services. Previous clients include major labels like Ann Taylor, Calvin Klein, Alexander Wang, Phillip Lim, and Ralph Lauren as well as smaller start-ups like J Press and Public School.
Located minutes away from Manhattan, BPD offers a full range of finishing and washing that include tinting, baking, spraying, sanding, coating and grinding services among others. While the house offers industry standard stonewash machines, BPD prides itself on its hand finishing by its team of skilled professionals. The wash house also holds an extensive collection of vintage clothing, ranging from the 40s onward, that are presented to clients for inspiration. Clients are able to view this collection as well as newer custom-washed clothing to find finishes they would like to replicate for their own lines.
Product Development Manager Ross Riddle was on hand to give us a tour of the plant and show us some machines and processes available (check out this video to see the wash house in action).
After the tour, we had a chance to chat and Ross about some of the services and how business responds to certain trends in the denim industry. With a growing number of brands tapping into the “Made-In-America” movement we were interested to find out if this had effected BPD’s portfolio of clients. Ross pointed out that it is mostly the smaller brands that invest in the Made-in-America trend and that most of the denim BPD works with isn’t American made, but most of their clients are NY-based. Ross also highlighted that BPD requires no minimum run, which allows them to work with a wide variety of clients.
At the moment, the wash house is working on S/S 14 pieces and Ross noted destruction, heavy bleaching, pieced denim, and rip/repair as key trends. He also said the heritage trend is still going strong with brands requesting one offs and smaller runs.
While BPD has been in existence for over a decade, the current owner, Bill Curtin, has only been in charge for the past three years. Last September, Curtin launched his own line of denim, which debuted at Bloomingdale’s NYC during Fashion’s Night Out. A small yet focused collection, the line offers a range of selvedge jeans (ranging from $150 – $179) in seven specialist washes as well as denim jacket. During the launch events customers who attended the special trunk shows, were offered the chance to customise their jean purchases with unique washes and finishes that could be created via an iPad.
Besides its own line of denim, BPD also offers special Denim 101 classes, featuring hands on training, classroom instruction, Dystar chemical expertise, and the chance to create your own jeans. The two-day, $1,000 course mostly appeals to industry professionals and consultants, but it is open to denim enthusiasts as well. So, if you plan to be in NY or NJ, take a look at BPD’s twitter account for class details. The next session will be October 14-15.
We were thrilled to visit BPD and see its capabilities firsthand. A big thank you to Ross for having us!
BPD Wash House, a full service denim development and consulting studio in Jersey City, NJ. Since we were in Manhattan, we hopped on the train and headed out there to take a tour of the plant and speak with one of their denim specialists about their laundry services.
Blueprint Denim (BPD) Wash House has been in the jeanswear laundry business for well over 10 years. As the east coasts only full service denim development studio, the company has attracted some of the most prestigious designer and mass market names from in and around New York to use their laundry and consultancy services. Previous clients include major labels like Ann Taylor, Calvin Klein, Alexander Wang, Phillip Lim, and Ralph Lauren as well as smaller start-ups like J Press and Public School.
Located minutes away from Manhattan, BPD offers a full range of finishing and washing that include tinting, baking, spraying, sanding, coating and grinding services among others. While the house offers industry standard stonewash machines, BPD prides itself on its hand finishing by its team of skilled professionals. The wash house also holds an extensive collection of vintage clothing, ranging from the 40s onward, that are presented to clients for inspiration. Clients are able to view this collection as well as newer custom-washed clothing to find finishes they would like to replicate for their own lines.
Product Development Manager Ross Riddle was on hand to give us a tour of the plant and show us some machines and processes available (check out this video to see the wash house in action).
After the tour, we had a chance to chat and Ross about some of the services and how business responds to certain trends in the denim industry. With a growing number of brands tapping into the “Made-In-America” movement we were interested to find out if this had effected BPD’s portfolio of clients. Ross pointed out that it is mostly the smaller brands that invest in the Made-in-America trend and that most of the denim BPD works with isn’t American made, but most of their clients are NY-based. Ross also highlighted that BPD requires no minimum run, which allows them to work with a wide variety of clients.
At the moment, the wash house is working on S/S 14 pieces and Ross noted destruction, heavy bleaching, pieced denim, and rip/repair as key trends. He also said the heritage trend is still going strong with brands requesting one offs and smaller runs.
While BPD has been in existence for over a decade, the current owner, Bill Curtin, has only been in charge for the past three years. Last September, Curtin launched his own line of denim, which debuted at Bloomingdale’s NYC during Fashion’s Night Out. A small yet focused collection, the line offers a range of selvedge jeans (ranging from $150 – $179) in seven specialist washes as well as denim jacket. During the launch events customers who attended the special trunk shows, were offered the chance to customise their jean purchases with unique washes and finishes that could be created via an iPad.
Besides its own line of denim, BPD also offers special Denim 101 classes, featuring hands on training, classroom instruction, Dystar chemical expertise, and the chance to create your own jeans. The two-day, $1,000 course mostly appeals to industry professionals and consultants, but it is open to denim enthusiasts as well. So, if you plan to be in NY or NJ, take a look at BPD’s twitter account for class details. The next session will be October 14-15.
We were thrilled to visit BPD and see its capabilities firsthand. A big thank you to Ross for having us!
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G-Star RAW Launches F/W 13 Multimedia Campaign
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Dutch denim purveyors G-Star RAW launches into Fall/Winter 13 with another high octane multimedia campaign featuring some big and unexpected names.
Each season G-Star raisees the bar for their campaigns, bringing together a mix of high profile photographers, new faces and most recently, stunning new CGI movies to celebrate their passion for denim. F/W 13 sees the brand take an unexpected move tapping British photographer Rankin to take over the reigns from Anton Corbjin who has been the brand’s ambassador during the past few years. In a set of simple stills, Rankin photographs Kasabian guitarist and songwriter Sergio Pizzorno, in what G-Star expresses as embodying a theme of “destroy to create.” Pizzorno is captured in the label’s signature denim, highlighting G-Star Raw’s craftsmanship and classic cuts.
Like The Art of Raw film we previewed earlier this year, the latest campaign release also features an incredibly mind-blowing and visually artistic film to accompany the photographs. The video, also shot by Rankin, follows G-Star’s signature Skeleton Dog as it races to evolve into the two seasonal faces Sergio and also Vaganaova Academy ballerina Keenan Kampa who fronts the women’s line.
As part of the launch, G-star has released an exclusive jean in collaboration with Sergio. Created especially for Selfridges, a limited edition Type C pant will be released October 10th in a limited run of 100 pieces. The Type C is the latest evolution of G-Star’s signature 3-D design. It is constructed with an anatomical fit, tapered legs and oversized rear pockets. A total of 150 have been made, and each one is crafted from 14oz dark aged denim with a special off-white pocket patch and logo. The patch of each pant is stamped with its own unique ID number, and is personally signed by Sergei as a mark of authenticity.
The Type C will be offered exclusively at Selfridges.com with an additional 50 available later at g-star.com.
Dutch denim purveyors G-Star RAW launches into Fall/Winter 13 with another high octane multimedia campaign featuring some big and unexpected names.
Each season G-Star raisees the bar for their campaigns, bringing together a mix of high profile photographers, new faces and most recently, stunning new CGI movies to celebrate their passion for denim. F/W 13 sees the brand take an unexpected move tapping British photographer Rankin to take over the reigns from Anton Corbjin who has been the brand’s ambassador during the past few years. In a set of simple stills, Rankin photographs Kasabian guitarist and songwriter Sergio Pizzorno, in what G-Star expresses as embodying a theme of “destroy to create.” Pizzorno is captured in the label’s signature denim, highlighting G-Star Raw’s craftsmanship and classic cuts.
Like The Art of Raw film we previewed earlier this year, the latest campaign release also features an incredibly mind-blowing and visually artistic film to accompany the photographs. The video, also shot by Rankin, follows G-Star’s signature Skeleton Dog as it races to evolve into the two seasonal faces Sergio and also Vaganaova Academy ballerina Keenan Kampa who fronts the women’s line.
As part of the launch, G-star has released an exclusive jean in collaboration with Sergio. Created especially for Selfridges, a limited edition Type C pant will be released October 10th in a limited run of 100 pieces. The Type C is the latest evolution of G-Star’s signature 3-D design. It is constructed with an anatomical fit, tapered legs and oversized rear pockets. A total of 150 have been made, and each one is crafted from 14oz dark aged denim with a special off-white pocket patch and logo. The patch of each pant is stamped with its own unique ID number, and is personally signed by Sergei as a mark of authenticity.
The Type C will be offered exclusively at Selfridges.com with an additional 50 available later at g-star.com.
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London Women’s S/S 14 Runway Highlights
Ashish Gupta once again showed his penchant for sequins delivering a collection emblazoned with shimmer and shine. The narrative of the line was one of which any party girl will relate to, jaded mornings after a late night, throwing on sweatshirts and jeans to hit the local corner store. However these out of bed looks took a slightly more polished appearence with pearlized, rainbow or leopard print sequins, A look synonymous with the label. Drawing upon his bona fide groupie base of fashion students, Ashish looked to shredded and slouchy denims, tearing up denim tees, ’90s style pant fits and shorts with exaggerated blowouts and heavy fraying.
Sister by Sibling’s women’s collection took a sweeter approach to the fities-sixties Americana theme showcased in their menswear collection. Designers Joe Bates, Cozette McCreery and Sid Bryan wanted to evolve the collection “from urban to suburban” with softer indigo shades and prim and pretty silhouettes lending a softer touch. There were also notes of the mid ’90s with stonewashed denims and sporty shapes with graphic topstitching that evoked the leisurewear infamous of the era. Standout pieces included a kimono sleeve denim mac , a popover tunic and a selection of highbrow denim knickers.
Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida have come a long way in the short time since their graduate collection in 2011. The S/S 14 show marked the duo’s first full-blown runway debut, bringing with it their signature denim style that they have finely tuned and made their own. While the early-nineties grunge-luxe look was still prominent, this season saw the pair evolve this indigo style with more refined and polished silhouettes that hinted accents of the far east with Mao collars and kimono closures on jackets. Their coveted raw edged added a visual texture to each of the denims, this time taking a more subtle approach with neat brushed and fluffy wefts. A dark indigo and mid-blue palette reigned supreme, while cow print pony skins and pearlescent organzas broke up the sea of denim.
Topshop unique’s S/S 15 show was all about high summer and exotic locations. Creative Director Kate Phelan explains “We started looking at holiday photos and beautiful interior images from North Africa and Morocco” Those Moroccan references were only too apparent in the repeat geo prints and deep, saturated shades of indigo, turquoise and green throughout the show. Denim played an important role in the line-up, however, with grounding grey-cast indigos, patched and frayed color blocking and glossy rigid indigos. Sporty pop-overs and blouson jackets as well as upsized boyfriend jeans and re-fabricated truckers were standout collections items.
Fulton explored some pretty innovative denim surfaces this season: what at first appeared to be beautiful and intricate indigo prints turned out to be precisely cut appliqued layers of denim. Deep and raw indigo blues, mid-casts and pale baby shades created an innovative, 3-dimensional surface and a neo-patchwork effect. Other items included elasticised track pants, cut-out tee shirts and concept-cut dresses but the beautiful denim surfaces were definately the star of the show.
A distinctly 80′s Miami vibe infiltrated Ashley Williams’ S/S 14 runway show but clean and retro, raw indigos gave the range a clean-cut edge. Crisp, pleated denims assumed ladylike silhouettes such as mid-calf pencils and shift dresses, whilst more playful mini’s added a touch of youthful fun. A concept-cut, collarless jacket and simple denim tee kept things demure and minimal, cementing the season’s trend for pared-back, premium denim and raw edged chic.
Head over to Stylesight’s Runway Quick Look page to see the full collection and to keep up-to-date on the latest shows.
Ashish Gupta once again showed his penchant for sequins delivering a collection emblazoned with shimmer and shine. The narrative of the line was one of which any party girl will relate to, jaded mornings after a late night, throwing on sweatshirts and jeans to hit the local corner store. However these out of bed looks took a slightly more polished appearence with pearlized, rainbow or leopard print sequins, A look synonymous with the label. Drawing upon his bona fide groupie base of fashion students, Ashish looked to shredded and slouchy denims, tearing up denim tees, ’90s style pant fits and shorts with exaggerated blowouts and heavy fraying.
Sister by Sibling’s women’s collection took a sweeter approach to the fities-sixties Americana theme showcased in their menswear collection. Designers Joe Bates, Cozette McCreery and Sid Bryan wanted to evolve the collection “from urban to suburban” with softer indigo shades and prim and pretty silhouettes lending a softer touch. There were also notes of the mid ’90s with stonewashed denims and sporty shapes with graphic topstitching that evoked the leisurewear infamous of the era. Standout pieces included a kimono sleeve denim mac , a popover tunic and a selection of highbrow denim knickers.
Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida have come a long way in the short time since their graduate collection in 2011. The S/S 14 show marked the duo’s first full-blown runway debut, bringing with it their signature denim style that they have finely tuned and made their own. While the early-nineties grunge-luxe look was still prominent, this season saw the pair evolve this indigo style with more refined and polished silhouettes that hinted accents of the far east with Mao collars and kimono closures on jackets. Their coveted raw edged added a visual texture to each of the denims, this time taking a more subtle approach with neat brushed and fluffy wefts. A dark indigo and mid-blue palette reigned supreme, while cow print pony skins and pearlescent organzas broke up the sea of denim.
Topshop unique’s S/S 15 show was all about high summer and exotic locations. Creative Director Kate Phelan explains “We started looking at holiday photos and beautiful interior images from North Africa and Morocco” Those Moroccan references were only too apparent in the repeat geo prints and deep, saturated shades of indigo, turquoise and green throughout the show. Denim played an important role in the line-up, however, with grounding grey-cast indigos, patched and frayed color blocking and glossy rigid indigos. Sporty pop-overs and blouson jackets as well as upsized boyfriend jeans and re-fabricated truckers were standout collections items.
Fulton explored some pretty innovative denim surfaces this season: what at first appeared to be beautiful and intricate indigo prints turned out to be precisely cut appliqued layers of denim. Deep and raw indigo blues, mid-casts and pale baby shades created an innovative, 3-dimensional surface and a neo-patchwork effect. Other items included elasticised track pants, cut-out tee shirts and concept-cut dresses but the beautiful denim surfaces were definately the star of the show.
A distinctly 80′s Miami vibe infiltrated Ashley Williams’ S/S 14 runway show but clean and retro, raw indigos gave the range a clean-cut edge. Crisp, pleated denims assumed ladylike silhouettes such as mid-calf pencils and shift dresses, whilst more playful mini’s added a touch of youthful fun. A concept-cut, collarless jacket and simple denim tee kept things demure and minimal, cementing the season’s trend for pared-back, premium denim and raw edged chic.
Head over to Stylesight’s Runway Quick Look page to see the full collection and to keep up-to-date on the latest shows.
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New York Women’s S/S 14 Runway Highlights
New York opened the Spring/Summer 2014 fashion week schedule with a denim packed selection of runway collections. Stylesight’s denim editors select the key designers who pushed indigo forward this season.
The fashion veteran really impressed this season, presenting a boho-indigo array of prints, textures and items. Artisinal techniques such as batik, block print, indigo dye and textures such as laser cutting and lacing created an overall feeling of rich, gip-set style. Prairie-ready silhouettes such as floor-skimming skirts and poncho-inspired shawls gave the collection a desert-plain appeal that sits bang in-line with our latest Denim Outlook, Eclectic Eccentric trend.
A designer who always explores a little denim in her range, Jen Kao went pretty indigo for S/S 14. As a follow-on from her Cruise 2014 collection, the designer explored simplified utility but this time in a deep, retro mid-cast raw. Deconstructed basics such as truckers, skirts, shorts and jeans were enlivened using raw and sliced edges and frayed finishes. Silhouettes came upsized to create a lounge-like feel and the folded-over denim pant stood out as a key directional piece.
Another strong indigo collection, cementing indigo-on-indigo pattern as a key direction for the coming season.Timo Weiland mixed rigid, clean basics in indigo and stark white with a strong artisanal indigo-print injection. Japanese-inspired Shibori looks (a Japanese dying technique using binding, folding and twisting to create batik-like effects) updated clean and retro women’s separates, and digital indigo floral prints gave the basic trucker runway presence.
An icy white palette set the tone for Diesel Black Gold designer Andreas Melbostad’s collection this Spring. Denim and leather remain the foundation for the label but Melbostad explored a new range of slouchy pant fits to sit alongside the brands signature skinny fits. The neutral palette provided the perfect canvas for the designer to explore a range of prints, surface textures and embellishment. Picking up where fall left off, he put grommets on the hems of mini skirts, while mirror discs added a touch of glamour to slick skinnies. Strategic fraying breathed subtle touches of color into boyfriend shapes with hints of grey wefts appearing through shredded accents or rolled cuffs. Meanwhile, digital jewel like prints created an optical illusion of 3-D texture.
Creatures of Comfort designer Jade Lai translated her vision of an idyllic island paradise through her collection that explored a rich indigo spectrum. The dip dyed indigo curtains provided the perfect backdrop for the monochrome looks that passed through the Maritime Hotel with easy and breezy chambray separates channeling a cool summer feel. The neutral palette tapped into the trend for natural indigos with green cast tones skipping between bright cast and vibrant azure with simple polka dots and needle punch destruction injecting subtle surface interest.
NY Fashion Week newcomers Veronica Beard looked back to the flash and decadence of New York in the ’80s delivering a lively collection filled with neon accents and beautiful indigo textures. The sisters-in-law went all out with with surface texture this season with distressed denim-effect photo printed leathers to create an optical illusion of texture and shine. They stamped these prints on matching trucker and skirt sets, jumpsuits and popover tops creating slick and sharp sculpted silhouettes. The Beards injected classic denim shapes with concept cuts, trapunto stitching and reconsidered closures that reinforced the brands youthful direction.
New York opened the Spring/Summer 2014 fashion week schedule with a denim packed selection of runway collections. Stylesight’s denim editors select the key designers who pushed indigo forward this season.
The fashion veteran really impressed this season, presenting a boho-indigo array of prints, textures and items. Artisinal techniques such as batik, block print, indigo dye and textures such as laser cutting and lacing created an overall feeling of rich, gip-set style. Prairie-ready silhouettes such as floor-skimming skirts and poncho-inspired shawls gave the collection a desert-plain appeal that sits bang in-line with our latest Denim Outlook, Eclectic Eccentric trend.
A designer who always explores a little denim in her range, Jen Kao went pretty indigo for S/S 14. As a follow-on from her Cruise 2014 collection, the designer explored simplified utility but this time in a deep, retro mid-cast raw. Deconstructed basics such as truckers, skirts, shorts and jeans were enlivened using raw and sliced edges and frayed finishes. Silhouettes came upsized to create a lounge-like feel and the folded-over denim pant stood out as a key directional piece.
Another strong indigo collection, cementing indigo-on-indigo pattern as a key direction for the coming season.Timo Weiland mixed rigid, clean basics in indigo and stark white with a strong artisanal indigo-print injection. Japanese-inspired Shibori looks (a Japanese dying technique using binding, folding and twisting to create batik-like effects) updated clean and retro women’s separates, and digital indigo floral prints gave the basic trucker runway presence.
An icy white palette set the tone for Diesel Black Gold designer Andreas Melbostad’s collection this Spring. Denim and leather remain the foundation for the label but Melbostad explored a new range of slouchy pant fits to sit alongside the brands signature skinny fits. The neutral palette provided the perfect canvas for the designer to explore a range of prints, surface textures and embellishment. Picking up where fall left off, he put grommets on the hems of mini skirts, while mirror discs added a touch of glamour to slick skinnies. Strategic fraying breathed subtle touches of color into boyfriend shapes with hints of grey wefts appearing through shredded accents or rolled cuffs. Meanwhile, digital jewel like prints created an optical illusion of 3-D texture.
Creatures of Comfort designer Jade Lai translated her vision of an idyllic island paradise through her collection that explored a rich indigo spectrum. The dip dyed indigo curtains provided the perfect backdrop for the monochrome looks that passed through the Maritime Hotel with easy and breezy chambray separates channeling a cool summer feel. The neutral palette tapped into the trend for natural indigos with green cast tones skipping between bright cast and vibrant azure with simple polka dots and needle punch destruction injecting subtle surface interest.
NY Fashion Week newcomers Veronica Beard looked back to the flash and decadence of New York in the ’80s delivering a lively collection filled with neon accents and beautiful indigo textures. The sisters-in-law went all out with with surface texture this season with distressed denim-effect photo printed leathers to create an optical illusion of texture and shine. They stamped these prints on matching trucker and skirt sets, jumpsuits and popover tops creating slick and sharp sculpted silhouettes. The Beards injected classic denim shapes with concept cuts, trapunto stitching and reconsidered closures that reinforced the brands youthful direction.
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Self Edge: Portland
A very special denim store opened a while back, but we’ve been waiting on some pictures before blogging. Step in our denim buddy Thomas from Denimhunters who put this piece together the other day on Self Edge Portland.
Kiya Babzani opened his first Self Edge store in 2006 and at that time, he really was one of the first to showcase all these hard-to-find Japanese denim brands as seen in Lightning and Free and Easy or read about on obsessive denim forums. Since then, both the market and the success of the stores has been overwhelming. Probably due to Kiya and the team’s amazing knowledge and enthusiasm, as well as the public’s willingness to educate themselves and get on board with high-end, quality denim products. But whatever it is, premium denim has taken America by storm.
They followed the successful San Fransisco branch up with Self Edge NY, then Self Edge LA and earlier this summer they opened the doors to Self Edge Portland. Kiya describes the decision in his online statement:
“We went to Portland to visit the crew behind Tanner Goods and after spending some time there we realized there was quite a large Self Edge fan base already there. We saw that what we do translates well to what locals in Portland look for in clothing and accessories (or anything for that matter) quality and attention to detail are at the top of the list when shopping or eating in this town”
They opened the store on August 3rd, one month ago in a new retail project called Union Way. We’re sure the store will do just as well as the previous three and wish Kiya and his fabulous team all the very best!
Self Edge Portland: 1022 W. Burnside Street #J, Portland, OR 97209, Tel: 971 271 8775
A very special denim store opened a while back, but we’ve been waiting on some pictures before blogging. Step in our denim buddy Thomas from Denimhunters who put this piece together the other day on Self Edge Portland.
Kiya Babzani opened his first Self Edge store in 2006 and at that time, he really was one of the first to showcase all these hard-to-find Japanese denim brands as seen in Lightning and Free and Easy or read about on obsessive denim forums. Since then, both the market and the success of the stores has been overwhelming. Probably due to Kiya and the team’s amazing knowledge and enthusiasm, as well as the public’s willingness to educate themselves and get on board with high-end, quality denim products. But whatever it is, premium denim has taken America by storm.
They followed the successful San Fransisco branch up with Self Edge NY, then Self Edge LA and earlier this summer they opened the doors to Self Edge Portland. Kiya describes the decision in his online statement:
“We went to Portland to visit the crew behind Tanner Goods and after spending some time there we realized there was quite a large Self Edge fan base already there. We saw that what we do translates well to what locals in Portland look for in clothing and accessories (or anything for that matter) quality and attention to detail are at the top of the list when shopping or eating in this town”
They opened the store on August 3rd, one month ago in a new retail project called Union Way. We’re sure the store will do just as well as the previous three and wish Kiya and his fabulous team all the very best!
Self Edge Portland: 1022 W. Burnside Street #J, Portland, OR 97209, Tel: 971 271 8775
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Levi’s Station to Station
Levi’s Station to Station public art project kicked off last week and has already stopped in three major US cities. We’ve been following this exciting multi-event train ride, curated by artist Doug Aitken for the last few days and it’s a really ambitious experience.
Station to Station connects artists and musicians, showcasing their diverse talents and works over a three week mammoth train journey across America. It started in New York last week and makes the journey from the east to west coast, stopping off at nine additional cities (details are at the bottom of this post) mimicking the movement by pioneers in Gold Rush era America.
So far it looks like pretty inspiring stuff: New York kicked off with performances by Ariel Pink, No Age, Yoshimio and Boredoms as well as The Kansas City Marching Cobras (a unique, region-specific African American marching band that merges traditional dance with aspects of voodoo).
The music was accompanied by art from Kenneth Anger, Urs Fisher, Liz Glynn, Carsten Höller, and Ernesto Neto. These hand-picked artists were commissioned to envision a yurt that visitors could explore and interact with on the night. They were joined by a collection of Levi’s® yurts that celebrated local artisans and products associated with the jeans brand: Folk Fibers, Cobra Boots, Chimayo, and Junkyard Jeans.
Events, gigs and art installations will travel with the train journey over the next few days and weeks. The procession has already stopped in Pittsburgh; take a look at the videos below to see what happened along the way and follow their Instagram feed for daily visual updates.
If you’re in the US, catch one of the many events in your city:
Brooklyn Launch (9/6) –> Pittsburgh (9/8) –> Chicago (9/10) –> Minneapolis / St. Paul (9/12) –> Santa Fe (9/18) –> Winslow, AZ (9/21) –> Barstow, CA (9/24) –> LA (9/26) –> Oakland / SF (9/28)
Levi’s Station to Station public art project kicked off last week and has already stopped in three major US cities. We’ve been following this exciting multi-event train ride, curated by artist Doug Aitken for the last few days and it’s a really ambitious experience.
Station to Station connects artists and musicians, showcasing their diverse talents and works over a three week mammoth train journey across America. It started in New York last week and makes the journey from the east to west coast, stopping off at nine additional cities (details are at the bottom of this post) mimicking the movement by pioneers in Gold Rush era America.
So far it looks like pretty inspiring stuff: New York kicked off with performances by Ariel Pink, No Age, Yoshimio and Boredoms as well as The Kansas City Marching Cobras (a unique, region-specific African American marching band that merges traditional dance with aspects of voodoo).
The music was accompanied by art from Kenneth Anger, Urs Fisher, Liz Glynn, Carsten Höller, and Ernesto Neto. These hand-picked artists were commissioned to envision a yurt that visitors could explore and interact with on the night. They were joined by a collection of Levi’s® yurts that celebrated local artisans and products associated with the jeans brand: Folk Fibers, Cobra Boots, Chimayo, and Junkyard Jeans.
Events, gigs and art installations will travel with the train journey over the next few days and weeks. The procession has already stopped in Pittsburgh; take a look at the videos below to see what happened along the way and follow their Instagram feed for daily visual updates.
If you’re in the US, catch one of the many events in your city:
Brooklyn Launch (9/6) –> Pittsburgh (9/8) –> Chicago (9/10) –> Minneapolis / St. Paul (9/12) –> Santa Fe (9/18) –> Winslow, AZ (9/21) –> Barstow, CA (9/24) –> LA (9/26) –> Oakland / SF (9/28)
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New Denim Design Talent: Tigran Avetisyan
Although not exactly a denim collection, the attitude and feel definitely inspires denim surface and design. Worker style jackets, oversized tees and tops are smothered with matte black and white paint and slogans such as “No Jobs” and “Stop Dreaming.” The collection is a comment on today’s graduates and the lack of hope and work out there right now.
He also used re-purposed fabrics found hidden or thrown away, like basic toile and calico. The collection, pitched for S/S 14 release, is a spin-off from his debut show at St Martins.
Dazed digital asked him a few questions, so hop over to their website to find out more…
Although not exactly a denim collection, the attitude and feel definitely inspires denim surface and design. Worker style jackets, oversized tees and tops are smothered with matte black and white paint and slogans such as “No Jobs” and “Stop Dreaming.” The collection is a comment on today’s graduates and the lack of hope and work out there right now.
He also used re-purposed fabrics found hidden or thrown away, like basic toile and calico. The collection, pitched for S/S 14 release, is a spin-off from his debut show at St Martins.
Dazed digital asked him a few questions, so hop over to their website to find out more…
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V&A Club to Catwalk: Design Denim Jackets From the 1980s
The V&A’s latest show, Club to Catwalk: London Fashion in the 1980s, has caught the London fashion scene by storm since it opened back in July. The exhibition explores the creative explosion of London fashion in the 1980s, looking at how the capital’s vibrant and eclectic club scene influenced a new generation of designers and reinvented fashion worldwide.
“The ’80s saw the explosion of the London club scene. Specialist club ‘nights’ offered opportunities for dressing up in the company of a like-minded crowd. Stevie Stewart of BodyMap explained that ‘each group of people, whether they were fashion designers, musicians or dancers, filmmakers, living together and going out together had a passion for creating something new that was almost infectious’.
Early clubs such as Billy’s, Blitz and the Club for Heroes were small and attracted a selective crowd. As the decade progressed, venues such as the Camden Palace and one-off warehouse parties began to attract much larger audiences. Although less intimate, they perpetuated the creative link between music, club and catwalk. This symbiotic relationship remained the defining characteristic of 1980s style.” - From The V&A Club to Catwalk – About the Exhibition
More than 85 outfits by the decade’s most experimental designers such as John Galliano, punk queen Vivienne Westwood and Katharine Hamnett are on display, presenting a mesmerising mix of iconic styles such as New Romantic, High Camp, Goth, Glam and reinvented-classics.
One section of the exhibition that we were especially excited to see was a series of customised Levi’s truckers. In 1986, Blitz magazine commissioned a group of 22 British designers to customise denim jackets, provided by Levi Strauss & Co, as a way to raise money for the Prince’s Trust, a youth charity. The collection provides a unique snap shot of the most fashionable and creative designers working in London that year like John Galliano, Zandra Rhodes, Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith, Bodymap, and Leigh Bowery. Embellishments on the jackets reflect the D.I.Y. attitude of the era with details like LED lights, hip flasks, encrusted gold hairpins, chains and cutlery. The collection is truly extraordinary, representing fearless design and the exuberance of the time.
A note from The V&A: “The V&A now has nine of these jackets in its collection. The Museum is keen to reunite the complete set of jackets for its new summer 2013 exhibition Club to Catwalk: London fashion in the 1980s and wants to hear from anyone who bought one of the other 13 jackets and has them tucked away in a wardrobe, or who knows of their current whereabouts.”
Take a look at this short video below so see some of the highlights from the Blitz Designer Collection fashion show at the Albery Theatre in London in June 1986 that features some if these customised Levis’ denim jackets.
For more information on the show, head on over to the V&A website where you can read more about the clothing on display as well as public programs and guided tours.
Club to Catwalk: London Fashion in the 1980s (July 10, 2013 – February 16, 2014) Cromwell Road, London SW7 2RL
Exhibition Ticket: £5.70. The museum is open daily from 10am to 5:45pm with extended hours on Fridays from 10am to 10pm
The V&A’s latest show, Club to Catwalk: London Fashion in the 1980s, has caught the London fashion scene by storm since it opened back in July. The exhibition explores the creative explosion of London fashion in the 1980s, looking at how the capital’s vibrant and eclectic club scene influenced a new generation of designers and reinvented fashion worldwide.
“The ’80s saw the explosion of the London club scene. Specialist club ‘nights’ offered opportunities for dressing up in the company of a like-minded crowd. Stevie Stewart of BodyMap explained that ‘each group of people, whether they were fashion designers, musicians or dancers, filmmakers, living together and going out together had a passion for creating something new that was almost infectious’.
Early clubs such as Billy’s, Blitz and the Club for Heroes were small and attracted a selective crowd. As the decade progressed, venues such as the Camden Palace and one-off warehouse parties began to attract much larger audiences. Although less intimate, they perpetuated the creative link between music, club and catwalk. This symbiotic relationship remained the defining characteristic of 1980s style.” - From The V&A Club to Catwalk – About the Exhibition
More than 85 outfits by the decade’s most experimental designers such as John Galliano, punk queen Vivienne Westwood and Katharine Hamnett are on display, presenting a mesmerising mix of iconic styles such as New Romantic, High Camp, Goth, Glam and reinvented-classics.
One section of the exhibition that we were especially excited to see was a series of customised Levi’s truckers. In 1986, Blitz magazine commissioned a group of 22 British designers to customise denim jackets, provided by Levi Strauss & Co, as a way to raise money for the Prince’s Trust, a youth charity. The collection provides a unique snap shot of the most fashionable and creative designers working in London that year like John Galliano, Zandra Rhodes, Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith, Bodymap, and Leigh Bowery. Embellishments on the jackets reflect the D.I.Y. attitude of the era with details like LED lights, hip flasks, encrusted gold hairpins, chains and cutlery. The collection is truly extraordinary, representing fearless design and the exuberance of the time.
A note from The V&A: “The V&A now has nine of these jackets in its collection. The Museum is keen to reunite the complete set of jackets for its new summer 2013 exhibition Club to Catwalk: London fashion in the 1980s and wants to hear from anyone who bought one of the other 13 jackets and has them tucked away in a wardrobe, or who knows of their current whereabouts.”
Take a look at this short video below so see some of the highlights from the Blitz Designer Collection fashion show at the Albery Theatre in London in June 1986 that features some if these customised Levis’ denim jackets.
For more information on the show, head on over to the V&A website where you can read more about the clothing on display as well as public programs and guided tours.
Club to Catwalk: London Fashion in the 1980s (July 10, 2013 – February 16, 2014) Cromwell Road, London SW7 2RL
Exhibition Ticket: £5.70. The museum is open daily from 10am to 5:45pm with extended hours on Fridays from 10am to 10pm
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Stockholm Fashion Week S/S 14 – Runway Highlights
Stylesight continues its S/S 14 runway highlights with a round-up of the best denim looks to emerge fromStockholm Fashion Week.
For Spring 2014, Cheap Monday plays with the in-your-face aesthetic and kick-ass attitude of the bold artists of the ’90s. The collection consisted of three key themes; exaggerated silhouettes, fragmented reality and buffalo riot. Taking on similar themes seen at KTZ and Kenzo, the collection featured egocentric prints, patchwork looks, intarsia texts and collage prints. Motifs included eyes and tribal style lettering in a bright palette that made up the theme’s cartoonish aesthetic and street strong style. More refined pieces included monochrome matched sets in clean, saturated shades, while a play on the shadow patchwork techniques played with the perennial indigo colorblock trend.
BACK, by Ann-Sophie Back has become a real denim name to watch after wow-ing us over recent seasons. F/W 13′s clean utility inspired collection was a highlight and of course her successful stint at Cheap Monday was well documented. For S/S 14, the Swede denim queen has continued from last season’s striped-back vibe and this time, visited a more activewear, sporty feel with a strong sophisticated edge. Rigid glossy denims are given a casual, raw edge and clean basics were re-worked in indigo to create casual sophistication. Back references influences from Calvin Klein’s `90s sporty underwear campaigns, as well as the styling by Anna Cockburn in the mid-`90s and we can really see those references shine through in her beautiful denim pieces.
Swedish denim brand, The Local Firm always reference stark and clean industrial architecture in their collections and for S/S 14, have named the show “White Concrete” in celebration of “big city life, metropolitan summer nights and the wear and tear of the capital.” Their color palettes are often very monochrome but this season, stark white is a strong element to counter the usual textured darks. Solid black features more strongly than usual as a dramatic contrast. Clean destruction also features throughout with our favorite piece, an inventive classic trucker with zip-through front seams a show-stopper.
Sweden is all about supporting and promoting their home grown talent. Each season the Swedish School of Textiles degree show is included within the Fashion Week schedule, showcasing the best young designers on an international platform. For Spring 2014, the “Exit 13″ graduate show presented 15 bachelor and master students, one of which included some progressive denim silhouettes. Gastav Falgén looked to the gritty topic of 1990s neo-nazis showcasing a runway of rough hooligans sporting jeans, balaclavas, bomber jackets and heavy duty boots. Bold bleach washes combined with oversized pant fits creating a more exaggerated take on ’90s style, while slim high-waisted fits cropped above the boots channeled more traditional skinhead looks.
Stylesight continues its S/S 14 runway highlights with a round-up of the best denim looks to emerge fromStockholm Fashion Week.
For Spring 2014, Cheap Monday plays with the in-your-face aesthetic and kick-ass attitude of the bold artists of the ’90s. The collection consisted of three key themes; exaggerated silhouettes, fragmented reality and buffalo riot. Taking on similar themes seen at KTZ and Kenzo, the collection featured egocentric prints, patchwork looks, intarsia texts and collage prints. Motifs included eyes and tribal style lettering in a bright palette that made up the theme’s cartoonish aesthetic and street strong style. More refined pieces included monochrome matched sets in clean, saturated shades, while a play on the shadow patchwork techniques played with the perennial indigo colorblock trend.
BACK, by Ann-Sophie Back has become a real denim name to watch after wow-ing us over recent seasons. F/W 13′s clean utility inspired collection was a highlight and of course her successful stint at Cheap Monday was well documented. For S/S 14, the Swede denim queen has continued from last season’s striped-back vibe and this time, visited a more activewear, sporty feel with a strong sophisticated edge. Rigid glossy denims are given a casual, raw edge and clean basics were re-worked in indigo to create casual sophistication. Back references influences from Calvin Klein’s `90s sporty underwear campaigns, as well as the styling by Anna Cockburn in the mid-`90s and we can really see those references shine through in her beautiful denim pieces.
Swedish denim brand, The Local Firm always reference stark and clean industrial architecture in their collections and for S/S 14, have named the show “White Concrete” in celebration of “big city life, metropolitan summer nights and the wear and tear of the capital.” Their color palettes are often very monochrome but this season, stark white is a strong element to counter the usual textured darks. Solid black features more strongly than usual as a dramatic contrast. Clean destruction also features throughout with our favorite piece, an inventive classic trucker with zip-through front seams a show-stopper.
Sweden is all about supporting and promoting their home grown talent. Each season the Swedish School of Textiles degree show is included within the Fashion Week schedule, showcasing the best young designers on an international platform. For Spring 2014, the “Exit 13″ graduate show presented 15 bachelor and master students, one of which included some progressive denim silhouettes. Gastav Falgén looked to the gritty topic of 1990s neo-nazis showcasing a runway of rough hooligans sporting jeans, balaclavas, bomber jackets and heavy duty boots. Bold bleach washes combined with oversized pant fits creating a more exaggerated take on ’90s style, while slim high-waisted fits cropped above the boots channeled more traditional skinhead looks.
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Las Vegas Trade Shows: Denim Trends
Last week we were at the must-attend Vegas trade shows, where new shows, brands and product made the season even more inspirational than usual. The shows had a much stronger menswear focus, largely due to the addition of Liberty, the new trade show on the block from Project founder, Sam Ben-Avraham.
Many men’s purist denim brands moved over from Project to Liberty, making for a more denim-heavy demographic. And with Capsule in the same location, all like-minded shows were in convenient proximity. This didn’t mean that Project was lacking in inspiration though. The show has teamed with ENK for the last two seasons and the women’s and Junior’s market remained a very strong focus. We will launched our denim trended report two days ago on the site but here are three of our favorite trends from the show.
Indigo Surf
Garments above from: Zee Gee Why, Original Jams, Remi Relief, Forestin’ Gear.
60′s surf is set to be the strongest unisex story for S/S 14. The men’s board short was an essential item and indigo-on-indigo colorways made the story relevant for the denim market. We particularly loved Remi Relief’spalm-shaped patch story, top left and Maurizio Donadi’s new venture, Original Jams had a stand-out booth, dressed up like an Hawaiian surf shack. Their girls chambray bralet and short sets were straight off a retro postcard from Honolulu.
White
Garments above from: MiH, A.N.D, Closed, The Stronghold.
Unbleached and ecru cotton shades were still going strong but a clean, utilitarian white story was very summer-relevant. We particularly loved the workwear angle that many brands opted for: stark railroad jackets, bib n brace overalls and classic western jackets were given box-fresh appeal in bright white shades.
Indigo Re-make
Garments above from Old Park, Closed.
The indigo-on-indigo patched story shows no signs of falling off the trend radar next summer, in fact it was a strong as ever. The noticeable change was a slightly more decorative, 70′s driven patchwork look, as also seen at the Rin Tanaka LA Event earlier this year. Plays on stars n stripes imagery was also given a new slant using remnants of overdyed indigo.
Last week we were at the must-attend Vegas trade shows, where new shows, brands and product made the season even more inspirational than usual. The shows had a much stronger menswear focus, largely due to the addition of Liberty, the new trade show on the block from Project founder, Sam Ben-Avraham.
Many men’s purist denim brands moved over from Project to Liberty, making for a more denim-heavy demographic. And with Capsule in the same location, all like-minded shows were in convenient proximity. This didn’t mean that Project was lacking in inspiration though. The show has teamed with ENK for the last two seasons and the women’s and Junior’s market remained a very strong focus. We will launched our denim trended report two days ago on the site but here are three of our favorite trends from the show.
Indigo Surf
Garments above from: Zee Gee Why, Original Jams, Remi Relief, Forestin’ Gear.
60′s surf is set to be the strongest unisex story for S/S 14. The men’s board short was an essential item and indigo-on-indigo colorways made the story relevant for the denim market. We particularly loved Remi Relief’spalm-shaped patch story, top left and Maurizio Donadi’s new venture, Original Jams had a stand-out booth, dressed up like an Hawaiian surf shack. Their girls chambray bralet and short sets were straight off a retro postcard from Honolulu.
White
Garments above from: MiH, A.N.D, Closed, The Stronghold.
Unbleached and ecru cotton shades were still going strong but a clean, utilitarian white story was very summer-relevant. We particularly loved the workwear angle that many brands opted for: stark railroad jackets, bib n brace overalls and classic western jackets were given box-fresh appeal in bright white shades.
Indigo Re-make
Garments above from Old Park, Closed.
The indigo-on-indigo patched story shows no signs of falling off the trend radar next summer, in fact it was a strong as ever. The noticeable change was a slightly more decorative, 70′s driven patchwork look, as also seen at the Rin Tanaka LA Event earlier this year. Plays on stars n stripes imagery was also given a new slant using remnants of overdyed indigo.
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CARTAGENA DE INDIAS, COLOMBIA , AN EXOTIC PLACE FOR DESIGNERS AND BRANDS.
We have been visiting the VI Latin American Congress for fashion in Colombia.
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Lee Jeans X Otter Wax
0
This fall see’s an exclusive collaboration between two iconic American workwear brands, Lee and Otter Wax of Portland, Oregon.
For well over a century now Kansas denim icon Lee has produced quality, dependable goods with authentic styling that surpasses many short-lived fads. Paying tribute to its heritage and timeless style, the premium sub-division Lee 101 looks to realign itself as an elite outdoor goods manufacturer teaming up with Portland fabric wax producer Otter Wax for an exclusive collaboration that combines American style with outdoor functionality.
While Levi’s has gained much credit for their high-end technical fabrics, the use of time-tested wax cotton still provides a safe haven for those looking to keep dry. Pairing Lee’s classic silhouettes with Otter Wax’s innovative natural treatments, the collaboration has been curated with the quality and design everyone has come to expect from these two honest, hard-working companies. Fans of each brand will see the release of sleek special edition package that contains Otter Wax’s heavy duty fabric wax and a pair of Lee 101 z dry selvedge jean. Buyers can then treat the jean to a fresh coat of wax to give their raw denim a water-repellent finish. These collaborative products will be available in the coming months at select stockists around the globe.
Fancy trying it yourself? Then here’s a short video in collaboration with The Coveted on how to treat your jeans with Otter Wax, which is available to buy from their online store. Also check out Otter Wax’s video page for further guides on treating your other outdoor garments too.
This fall see’s an exclusive collaboration between two iconic American workwear brands, Lee and Otter Wax of Portland, Oregon.
For well over a century now Kansas denim icon Lee has produced quality, dependable goods with authentic styling that surpasses many short-lived fads. Paying tribute to its heritage and timeless style, the premium sub-division Lee 101 looks to realign itself as an elite outdoor goods manufacturer teaming up with Portland fabric wax producer Otter Wax for an exclusive collaboration that combines American style with outdoor functionality.
While Levi’s has gained much credit for their high-end technical fabrics, the use of time-tested wax cotton still provides a safe haven for those looking to keep dry. Pairing Lee’s classic silhouettes with Otter Wax’s innovative natural treatments, the collaboration has been curated with the quality and design everyone has come to expect from these two honest, hard-working companies. Fans of each brand will see the release of sleek special edition package that contains Otter Wax’s heavy duty fabric wax and a pair of Lee 101 z dry selvedge jean. Buyers can then treat the jean to a fresh coat of wax to give their raw denim a water-repellent finish. These collaborative products will be available in the coming months at select stockists around the globe.
Fancy trying it yourself? Then here’s a short video in collaboration with The Coveted on how to treat your jeans with Otter Wax, which is available to buy from their online store. Also check out Otter Wax’s video page for further guides on treating your other outdoor garments too.
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A Look Inside One of Tennessee’s Oldest Denim Manufacturers
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The New York Times recently published an article on L .C. King Manufacturing Company, one of the oldest work and outdoor garment manufacturers in the USA. Most famous for its in-house brand Pointer, L .C. King has come into the limelight as of late with a slew of designer labels looking to tap into its steeped heritage.
In Bristol, Tennessee lies L .C. King Manufacturing Company, the oldest cut-and-sew factory in the United States still owned by its founding family. This year, Jack King, fourth generation, L .C. King celebrated 100 years of manufacturing. The factory is mostly recognized for its production of work and outdoor garments for the rural south – think: canvas chore coats, dungarees and coveralls. As well as providing these rugged uniforms for many of America’s prestigious retailers of the time, Mr. King’s great-grandfather, Landon Clayton King, a sportsman, created Pointer in 1913, the same year the factory was founded.
While the factory continues to produce the label today, the Pointer brand has recently gained interest from the menswear market after Japanese designer Junya Watanabe modified some Pointer jackets for his men’s line. A slightly cleaner and more technical take on the haphazard repairs and reinforcements of turn-of-the-century rural farmers, Watanabe’s deluxe versions are stocked in some of the most high-end boutiques around the globe and start for a mere $800.
In the article Mr. King notes, “Having Mr. Watanabe’s endorsement made a big difference in terms of confidence. It really helped us know that we can sew stuff that people want as fashion.” In the last two years a number of new designers and designers interested in American-made have used the factory, including Marc Nelson from Knoxville, Lumina, a casual men’s line in Raleigh. N.C., and Ruell and Ray by Ashley James. What’s more, Mr. King is keen to build these relationships and showcase his wealth of his skill force and invites these designers to use factory as an atelier where they are free to work. As the article quotes, “At L .C. King, the quality comes not just from design, but from the manufacturer.”
The factory itself still retains much of the charm of its origins: beautiful red brick exterior, ’30s wooden crates that serve as shelves, and vintage machines that ring on the pine floors with a rhythm from another time. But factory’s most valuable asset is the workers – the backbone and life force of the company. Their skill sets are second to none with some dedicated employees serving over 26 years in the plant.
The article goes on to explore the future of the brand and where Mr. King intends to take it. Over the past few years Mr. King has seen Japanese hipsters and West Coast workwear fans pick up on Pointer and is well aware of the potential to be uncovered, but he is keen to do it with the right vision. Additionally, with many brands now approaching with the American-made attitude, it is offering an opportunity to rebuild an industry in pieces.
If you would like to read more on the story, head over to the NY Times website or alternatively take a look at thePointer and L .C. King Manufacturing Company webpages.
All images sourced from New York Times.
The New York Times recently published an article on L .C. King Manufacturing Company, one of the oldest work and outdoor garment manufacturers in the USA. Most famous for its in-house brand Pointer, L .C. King has come into the limelight as of late with a slew of designer labels looking to tap into its steeped heritage.
In Bristol, Tennessee lies L .C. King Manufacturing Company, the oldest cut-and-sew factory in the United States still owned by its founding family. This year, Jack King, fourth generation, L .C. King celebrated 100 years of manufacturing. The factory is mostly recognized for its production of work and outdoor garments for the rural south – think: canvas chore coats, dungarees and coveralls. As well as providing these rugged uniforms for many of America’s prestigious retailers of the time, Mr. King’s great-grandfather, Landon Clayton King, a sportsman, created Pointer in 1913, the same year the factory was founded.
While the factory continues to produce the label today, the Pointer brand has recently gained interest from the menswear market after Japanese designer Junya Watanabe modified some Pointer jackets for his men’s line. A slightly cleaner and more technical take on the haphazard repairs and reinforcements of turn-of-the-century rural farmers, Watanabe’s deluxe versions are stocked in some of the most high-end boutiques around the globe and start for a mere $800.
In the article Mr. King notes, “Having Mr. Watanabe’s endorsement made a big difference in terms of confidence. It really helped us know that we can sew stuff that people want as fashion.” In the last two years a number of new designers and designers interested in American-made have used the factory, including Marc Nelson from Knoxville, Lumina, a casual men’s line in Raleigh. N.C., and Ruell and Ray by Ashley James. What’s more, Mr. King is keen to build these relationships and showcase his wealth of his skill force and invites these designers to use factory as an atelier where they are free to work. As the article quotes, “At L .C. King, the quality comes not just from design, but from the manufacturer.”
The factory itself still retains much of the charm of its origins: beautiful red brick exterior, ’30s wooden crates that serve as shelves, and vintage machines that ring on the pine floors with a rhythm from another time. But factory’s most valuable asset is the workers – the backbone and life force of the company. Their skill sets are second to none with some dedicated employees serving over 26 years in the plant.
The article goes on to explore the future of the brand and where Mr. King intends to take it. Over the past few years Mr. King has seen Japanese hipsters and West Coast workwear fans pick up on Pointer and is well aware of the potential to be uncovered, but he is keen to do it with the right vision. Additionally, with many brands now approaching with the American-made attitude, it is offering an opportunity to rebuild an industry in pieces.
If you would like to read more on the story, head over to the NY Times website or alternatively take a look at thePointer and L .C. King Manufacturing Company webpages.
All images sourced from New York Times.
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Levi’s Vintage Clothing: Party In Your Pants Festival
In celebration of this special era, the brand went all-out and hosted a bohemian music festival with a true `70s vibe. The event was intimate (for a festival!), hosting a crowd of 1,000 in the stunning Topanga area of Los Angeles with a backdrop of mountains, rocky outcrops, dusty valleys and trees. The stage featured a stellar line-up of musicians playing covers from the glory days of rock ‘n’ roll: Chevy Metal (with special guest Dave Grohl) played Rolling Stones hits, Johnathan Wilson and friends played the Grateful Dead and Jonathan Riceand Friends played classics from Gram Parsons and The Flying Burrito Brothers among many other authentic and inspiring acts.
Levi’s also set up a fake radio station for the event, called KLVC and played classic retro tunes from the era between the live sets.
Hospitality was generous with beers and cocktails, burgers, hot dogs, mac and cheese and an ice cream cart all free-flowing throughout the day and into the evening. Much needed water was supplied in vintage army canteens and authentic surplus army tents and wig-wams circled the valley. Cult Gaia supplied everyone with fresh floral headdresses and there was even a tie-dye station where KLVC tees and bandannas could be transformed into psychedelic statements. Later in the afternoon, everyone, including the LVC design team joined in on a giant game of Twister and a raffle was held for a Fender Telecaster guitar.
Attendees definitely got the retro memo: we noted some radical `70s styling; both guys and girls donned mid-cast bright indigo, hand-embroidered chambray shirts, fringed suede jackets and vests, and plenty of long hair and beards.
With the very authentic backdrop, the Levi’s team treated the event as a photoshoot, snapping models in next season’s collection for their lookbook. The brand also has plans to release a magazine that replicates the tone, feel and content from the `70s in their continued campaign supporting this return to Orange Tab. We personally loved the event, style and concept behind both the event and the Orange Tab line and are looking forward to seeing more. We also clocked a notable return to `70s styling at the recent Way Out West festival in Gothenburg so there’s definitely something in the air!
In celebration of this special era, the brand went all-out and hosted a bohemian music festival with a true `70s vibe. The event was intimate (for a festival!), hosting a crowd of 1,000 in the stunning Topanga area of Los Angeles with a backdrop of mountains, rocky outcrops, dusty valleys and trees. The stage featured a stellar line-up of musicians playing covers from the glory days of rock ‘n’ roll: Chevy Metal (with special guest Dave Grohl) played Rolling Stones hits, Johnathan Wilson and friends played the Grateful Dead and Jonathan Riceand Friends played classics from Gram Parsons and The Flying Burrito Brothers among many other authentic and inspiring acts.
Levi’s also set up a fake radio station for the event, called KLVC and played classic retro tunes from the era between the live sets.
Hospitality was generous with beers and cocktails, burgers, hot dogs, mac and cheese and an ice cream cart all free-flowing throughout the day and into the evening. Much needed water was supplied in vintage army canteens and authentic surplus army tents and wig-wams circled the valley. Cult Gaia supplied everyone with fresh floral headdresses and there was even a tie-dye station where KLVC tees and bandannas could be transformed into psychedelic statements. Later in the afternoon, everyone, including the LVC design team joined in on a giant game of Twister and a raffle was held for a Fender Telecaster guitar.
Attendees definitely got the retro memo: we noted some radical `70s styling; both guys and girls donned mid-cast bright indigo, hand-embroidered chambray shirts, fringed suede jackets and vests, and plenty of long hair and beards.
With the very authentic backdrop, the Levi’s team treated the event as a photoshoot, snapping models in next season’s collection for their lookbook. The brand also has plans to release a magazine that replicates the tone, feel and content from the `70s in their continued campaign supporting this return to Orange Tab. We personally loved the event, style and concept behind both the event and the Orange Tab line and are looking forward to seeing more. We also clocked a notable return to `70s styling at the recent Way Out West festival in Gothenburg so there’s definitely something in the air!
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Introducing: Flying Horse Jeans
Earlier this year, London’s Carnaby Street took on a new addition to their growing denim portfolio, Flying Horse, a lifestyle jeanswear brand specializing in unique indigo dyeing.
While the UK is not seen as the epicenter of denim design, England and surrounding countries have given birth to some of the most progressive brands in Europe. Labels like Huit, Dawson Denim and Tender are some of the core names supporting and helping to rebuild England’s domestic manufacturing. One of the brands to emerge on the map is Flying Horse, brain child of friends and co-founders David Rix and Sanjay Madan.
Founded in 2010, with the spirit of South East Asia and a lust for adventure at its core, the label has established itself with its unique indigo dyeing methods and specialist construction techniques. David’s extensive knowledge of design from working with Ralph Lauren and VF Europe, coupled with Sanjay’s 30 years of experience in jeans manufacturing, has given the brand the right foot to break into the currently over-saturated denim market.
The video above highlights the brand’s meticulous care and attention to detail, with a behind-the-scenes look into the manufacturing process at Sanjay’s factory. Each process is considered thoroughly, from the initial purity of the cotton and rope dyeing processes to achieve maximum depth of purity in the indigo, through to the signature yellow selvedge or the hand-finished touches. Other notable features include laser branding on the waistband, embossed hardware and rear leather patch with scripted FH logo.
Located on Newburgh St., just a stones throw from Carnaby St., the Flying Horse flagship ties in the founders’ inspirations of South East Asia, using reclaimed beams to create the reflection of the brand’s spirit in the store. The interior incorporates white oiled reclaimed Fleet Street pine boards on the floors with sun bleach effect wood cladding to provide a natural backdrop for the jeanswear with suitcases and tropical plants adding to the traveler theme.
Visit Flying Horse’s website to find out more behind the brand or take a trip to their store at:
8 Newburgh Street,
Newburgh Quarter
London
W1F 7RJ
Earlier this year, London’s Carnaby Street took on a new addition to their growing denim portfolio, Flying Horse, a lifestyle jeanswear brand specializing in unique indigo dyeing.
While the UK is not seen as the epicenter of denim design, England and surrounding countries have given birth to some of the most progressive brands in Europe. Labels like Huit, Dawson Denim and Tender are some of the core names supporting and helping to rebuild England’s domestic manufacturing. One of the brands to emerge on the map is Flying Horse, brain child of friends and co-founders David Rix and Sanjay Madan.
Founded in 2010, with the spirit of South East Asia and a lust for adventure at its core, the label has established itself with its unique indigo dyeing methods and specialist construction techniques. David’s extensive knowledge of design from working with Ralph Lauren and VF Europe, coupled with Sanjay’s 30 years of experience in jeans manufacturing, has given the brand the right foot to break into the currently over-saturated denim market.
The video above highlights the brand’s meticulous care and attention to detail, with a behind-the-scenes look into the manufacturing process at Sanjay’s factory. Each process is considered thoroughly, from the initial purity of the cotton and rope dyeing processes to achieve maximum depth of purity in the indigo, through to the signature yellow selvedge or the hand-finished touches. Other notable features include laser branding on the waistband, embossed hardware and rear leather patch with scripted FH logo.
Located on Newburgh St., just a stones throw from Carnaby St., the Flying Horse flagship ties in the founders’ inspirations of South East Asia, using reclaimed beams to create the reflection of the brand’s spirit in the store. The interior incorporates white oiled reclaimed Fleet Street pine boards on the floors with sun bleach effect wood cladding to provide a natural backdrop for the jeanswear with suitcases and tropical plants adding to the traveler theme.
Visit Flying Horse’s website to find out more behind the brand or take a trip to their store at:
8 Newburgh Street,
Newburgh Quarter
London
W1F 7RJ
Newburgh Quarter
London
W1F 7RJ
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We Love: Diesel & Edun
We came across this awesome set of photos on Diesel’s facebook page, taken during the filming of Spoek Mathambo’s latest video “Awufuni” in association with Diesel+EDUN and Studio Africa.
For those of you not familiar with the Diesel x Edun collaboration, this is the second season of the exciting and ethical fashion venture started back in January 2012 by Diesel founder Renzo Rosso and EDUN founders Ali Hewson and Bono.
The two companies have a shared love of Africa and toured each other’s programs: Diesel’s Only The Brave Foundation project in Dioro, Mali and EDUN’s Conservation Cotton Initiative (CCI) in Uganda. The experience encouraged them to join forces to further apparel trade and development in Africa under the name Diesel+EDUN.
Their next venture is called Studio Africa and is a development of the Spring 2013 Diesel+EDUN range. Studio Africa is intended as a “virtual loudspeaker for a new generation of creative talents from across the continent.” The campaign features nine artists in fashion, film, music, literature, and photography – individuals with both talent and a deep commitment to their respective countries and people. For instance, a catwalk model running a foundation for the education of orphaned girls in Tanzania, an actor creating opportunities for Senegal’s talibé beggar children, a fashion designer building an industry in Côte d’Ivoire, a photography collective showing their hometown of Soweto, South Africa in a whole new light, and the list goes on…
These latest images are of Spoek Mathambo, an amazing and vibrant band from South Africa that pays homage to Izintombi Zesi Manje Manje, a female group that took Africa by storm in the late 1960s.
Using raw, untreated denim, the 25-piece collection co-designed by Diesel+EDUN was built around a reinterpretation of the four-pocket jean of the `70s popular on South African streets. Malian textile prints are echoed in the denim lining and across the jersey pieces in the collection. Embroidery details reference traditional Zulu weaving patterns, while the dresses feature Kenyan metalwork. Running through the collection are four original symbols designed to reflect the heart of the DIESEL+EDUN collection.
We came across this awesome set of photos on Diesel’s facebook page, taken during the filming of Spoek Mathambo’s latest video “Awufuni” in association with Diesel+EDUN and Studio Africa.
For those of you not familiar with the Diesel x Edun collaboration, this is the second season of the exciting and ethical fashion venture started back in January 2012 by Diesel founder Renzo Rosso and EDUN founders Ali Hewson and Bono.
The two companies have a shared love of Africa and toured each other’s programs: Diesel’s Only The Brave Foundation project in Dioro, Mali and EDUN’s Conservation Cotton Initiative (CCI) in Uganda. The experience encouraged them to join forces to further apparel trade and development in Africa under the name Diesel+EDUN.
Their next venture is called Studio Africa and is a development of the Spring 2013 Diesel+EDUN range. Studio Africa is intended as a “virtual loudspeaker for a new generation of creative talents from across the continent.” The campaign features nine artists in fashion, film, music, literature, and photography – individuals with both talent and a deep commitment to their respective countries and people. For instance, a catwalk model running a foundation for the education of orphaned girls in Tanzania, an actor creating opportunities for Senegal’s talibé beggar children, a fashion designer building an industry in Côte d’Ivoire, a photography collective showing their hometown of Soweto, South Africa in a whole new light, and the list goes on…
These latest images are of Spoek Mathambo, an amazing and vibrant band from South Africa that pays homage to Izintombi Zesi Manje Manje, a female group that took Africa by storm in the late 1960s.
Using raw, untreated denim, the 25-piece collection co-designed by Diesel+EDUN was built around a reinterpretation of the four-pocket jean of the `70s popular on South African streets. Malian textile prints are echoed in the denim lining and across the jersey pieces in the collection. Embroidery details reference traditional Zulu weaving patterns, while the dresses feature Kenyan metalwork. Running through the collection are four original symbols designed to reflect the heart of the DIESEL+EDUN collection.
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Tsutsugaki: Indigo Textiles From Japan
We’ve just discovered a great, indigo-inspired exhibition to attend if you’re in Paris. The National Museum of Asian Arts Guimet dedicates its current show to the little-known but sensational art of Tsutsugaki, showing approximately 30 textiles examples, presenting them for the first time outside of Japan.
Japanese textiles have been a hot topic in denim over the past few season’s with designers across the board looking to antique craft techniques like boro patchworking, sashiko stitch techniques as well as traditional print and indigo dye methods.
Japanese aficionados will be excited to discover that the Musee Guimet in Paris has opened an exhibition featuring the little known Japanese folk art of Tsutsugaki. Tsutsugaki is a resist dye technique which uses a rice paste glue for the resists. Inside the exhibition (running July 10 through October 7, 2013) visitors will find a plethora of examples of this ancient craft ranging from decorated hangings, covers and clothes, most of which are being shown for the first time outside of Japan. This dying technique was most popular in the late Edo period between the early 1600s and the mid-1800s. Families would commission these textiles to commemorate important events such as births and marriages.
For more information on the show head over to the Musee Guimet website where you can read more about the artworks on display as well as special events and guided tours.
Tsutsugaki: Indigo Textiles of Japan (July 10 – October 7, 2013)
Exhibition ticket: € 8
The museum is open every day except Tuesdays from 10am to 6pm.
6, place d’Iena, 75116 Paris
We’ve just discovered a great, indigo-inspired exhibition to attend if you’re in Paris. The National Museum of Asian Arts Guimet dedicates its current show to the little-known but sensational art of Tsutsugaki, showing approximately 30 textiles examples, presenting them for the first time outside of Japan.
Japanese textiles have been a hot topic in denim over the past few season’s with designers across the board looking to antique craft techniques like boro patchworking, sashiko stitch techniques as well as traditional print and indigo dye methods.
Japanese aficionados will be excited to discover that the Musee Guimet in Paris has opened an exhibition featuring the little known Japanese folk art of Tsutsugaki. Tsutsugaki is a resist dye technique which uses a rice paste glue for the resists. Inside the exhibition (running July 10 through October 7, 2013) visitors will find a plethora of examples of this ancient craft ranging from decorated hangings, covers and clothes, most of which are being shown for the first time outside of Japan. This dying technique was most popular in the late Edo period between the early 1600s and the mid-1800s. Families would commission these textiles to commemorate important events such as births and marriages.
For more information on the show head over to the Musee Guimet website where you can read more about the artworks on display as well as special events and guided tours.
Tsutsugaki: Indigo Textiles of Japan (July 10 – October 7, 2013)
Exhibition ticket: € 8
The museum is open every day except Tuesdays from 10am to 6pm.
6, place d’Iena, 75116 Paris
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Introducing: Olaf Hussein
Last month Stylesight’s denim team attended Amsterdam’s Modefabriek where we covered Blueprint, the shows denim-dedicated room full of both international and local Dutch brands. The Netherlands and Amsterdam in particular have become Europe’s hot bed for young denim design talent. The thriving denim culture in the city has given birth to a gaggle of smaller denim ateliers like Kings of Indigo, Benzak Denim Developers and Butcher of Blue.
One of the newest and most promising label that was presented at Blueprint was the namesake label of Olaf Hussein, an expressive denim brand born out of the designer’s curiosity of exploration and travel. Founded only two years ago, Olaf has already established himself firmly in the city’s denim landscape, landing spots in key outlets like Tenue de Nîmes, 1 and Van Dijk.
Olaf creates his bespoke products with the denim purist in mind and takes pride in doing it the right way. The core of the collection is built on simplicity and quality with cleanly tailored lines captured through premium 13OZ Japanese selvedge sourced from the renowned Kuroki mill in Okayama.
For Hussein, every single detail is crucial; his two jean fits, New Standard and New Standard Slim, are highlighted by a unique Japanese selvedge zipper, an Italian hand-brushed gold button and a hand-stitched green vegetable tanned, embossed leather patch by Guild of Holland. Limited to only 100 pairs of each fit, Olaf is keeping things simple so that he can focus on quality and correct placement of the brand.
To find out more behind the brand we spoke to the man himself to discuss the story behind his brand, his influences and how it is to be a young brand among Amsterdam’s bustling denim scene:
Amsterdam is now a key destination in Europe for some of the most directional denim brands in the market. As a young designer growing up in the city, how has this influenced your brand and influences?
I am always inspired by the world around me, but Amsterdam is really important to the identity of the brand. Not only is Amsterdam the chosen European HQ of denim brands like Levi’s Vintage Clothing and Tommy Hilfiger, it’s also home to many internationally successful Dutch brands like G-star, Denham and Scotch & Soda. With the increased amount of denim brands and denim minded people, the scene in Amsterdam grew rapidly over the years. Growing up in Amsterdam with some of the most iconic brands with unlimited possibilities hugely influenced my creativity and modern view on design.
You were showing at Bread & Butter and Modefabriek among a collective of younger brands under HTNK. What is your relationship with them and how do they help support upcoming brands in Amsterdam today?
Trade shows, when chosen correctly, provide an excellent way to build your business, especially if you’re relatively new in the industry. For my label the selection of these trade shows was based on getting the right exposure to the right audience. They both provide a unique and extremely popular meeting point for buyers, retailers and press representatives from the textile industry. It is also the place where it is made possible to connect with other brands and discuss new innovations and trends. With the collective of younger brands under the HNTK Foundation they make it easy to match creativity with business and give the upcoming brands in Amsterdam a platform to expend their brand.
You do not have a design background and are self taught on machines. What inspired you to get into jeanswear?
The Evisu brand definitely got me inspired to get into jeanswear. They had an obsessive attention for detail, which they combined with high-end fabrics. I remember the days that I as a young kid just couldn’t wait to get my very own pair. I think it was somewhere between the age of fourteen or fifteen, my mum bought my first pair of dry denim, a pair of Evisu jeans with white painted back pockets. I remember that it was within the first week I made a rip and I had to make a repair. I wore them through the back end of winter. They saw a few showers and some puddles and a bit of snow too. Denim quickly became my passion, so I spent hours and hours a day learning everything I could about the fabric: the history of denim, how it’s made, the dying process, etc. I discovered this mix of modern and traditional elements, which has brought me a great interest to discover the beauty of it. It wasn’t `till years later that I started my own line, Olaf Hussein.
Can you please tell us about some of the key details that make your jeans stand out from other 5-pocket styles in the market today? (i.e. selvedge fly etc.)
One of our key details is the fit. We are specialized in two different fits, the high-waist tapered and the mid-rise slim fit. The high-waisted tapered is for the person with muscled upper legs that still wants to wear comfortable tapered jeans. The mid-rise slim is our standard fit. The Olaf Hussein jean takes a modern take on a classic 5-pocket style. Made from unwashed high quality Japanese selvage fabrics, with classic and refined details. These details include a unique selvage zipper and hand-stitched green vegetable tanned leather patch with embossing.
What’s your favorite piece from the collection?
That’s our classic 5-pocket design. This 13 oz. sanforized selvedge denim has been dyed with a natural indigo and sourced from the Kuroki Mill in Okayama, Japan. These jeans feature a unique Japanese selvedge zipper, hand-brushed gold button from Italy and a hand-stitched green vegetable tanned leather patch with embossing. It is also the inspiration for designs in later collections.
Whats your favorite place to shop for denim in Amsterdam?
There isn’t a particular district to shop for denim, but Tenue de Nimes is definitely one of my favorite shops for denim in Amsterdam. They offer a good collection of modern and traditional denim and there is a beautiful mix between product and interior. Every store carries jeans these days, but not all of them have the staff to get you the right pair.
Last month Stylesight’s denim team attended Amsterdam’s Modefabriek where we covered Blueprint, the shows denim-dedicated room full of both international and local Dutch brands. The Netherlands and Amsterdam in particular have become Europe’s hot bed for young denim design talent. The thriving denim culture in the city has given birth to a gaggle of smaller denim ateliers like Kings of Indigo, Benzak Denim Developers and Butcher of Blue.
One of the newest and most promising label that was presented at Blueprint was the namesake label of Olaf Hussein, an expressive denim brand born out of the designer’s curiosity of exploration and travel. Founded only two years ago, Olaf has already established himself firmly in the city’s denim landscape, landing spots in key outlets like Tenue de Nîmes, 1 and Van Dijk.
Olaf creates his bespoke products with the denim purist in mind and takes pride in doing it the right way. The core of the collection is built on simplicity and quality with cleanly tailored lines captured through premium 13OZ Japanese selvedge sourced from the renowned Kuroki mill in Okayama.
For Hussein, every single detail is crucial; his two jean fits, New Standard and New Standard Slim, are highlighted by a unique Japanese selvedge zipper, an Italian hand-brushed gold button and a hand-stitched green vegetable tanned, embossed leather patch by Guild of Holland. Limited to only 100 pairs of each fit, Olaf is keeping things simple so that he can focus on quality and correct placement of the brand.
To find out more behind the brand we spoke to the man himself to discuss the story behind his brand, his influences and how it is to be a young brand among Amsterdam’s bustling denim scene:
Amsterdam is now a key destination in Europe for some of the most directional denim brands in the market. As a young designer growing up in the city, how has this influenced your brand and influences?
I am always inspired by the world around me, but Amsterdam is really important to the identity of the brand. Not only is Amsterdam the chosen European HQ of denim brands like Levi’s Vintage Clothing and Tommy Hilfiger, it’s also home to many internationally successful Dutch brands like G-star, Denham and Scotch & Soda. With the increased amount of denim brands and denim minded people, the scene in Amsterdam grew rapidly over the years. Growing up in Amsterdam with some of the most iconic brands with unlimited possibilities hugely influenced my creativity and modern view on design.
You were showing at Bread & Butter and Modefabriek among a collective of younger brands under HTNK. What is your relationship with them and how do they help support upcoming brands in Amsterdam today?
Trade shows, when chosen correctly, provide an excellent way to build your business, especially if you’re relatively new in the industry. For my label the selection of these trade shows was based on getting the right exposure to the right audience. They both provide a unique and extremely popular meeting point for buyers, retailers and press representatives from the textile industry. It is also the place where it is made possible to connect with other brands and discuss new innovations and trends. With the collective of younger brands under the HNTK Foundation they make it easy to match creativity with business and give the upcoming brands in Amsterdam a platform to expend their brand.
You do not have a design background and are self taught on machines. What inspired you to get into jeanswear?
The Evisu brand definitely got me inspired to get into jeanswear. They had an obsessive attention for detail, which they combined with high-end fabrics. I remember the days that I as a young kid just couldn’t wait to get my very own pair. I think it was somewhere between the age of fourteen or fifteen, my mum bought my first pair of dry denim, a pair of Evisu jeans with white painted back pockets. I remember that it was within the first week I made a rip and I had to make a repair. I wore them through the back end of winter. They saw a few showers and some puddles and a bit of snow too. Denim quickly became my passion, so I spent hours and hours a day learning everything I could about the fabric: the history of denim, how it’s made, the dying process, etc. I discovered this mix of modern and traditional elements, which has brought me a great interest to discover the beauty of it. It wasn’t `till years later that I started my own line, Olaf Hussein.
Can you please tell us about some of the key details that make your jeans stand out from other 5-pocket styles in the market today? (i.e. selvedge fly etc.)
One of our key details is the fit. We are specialized in two different fits, the high-waist tapered and the mid-rise slim fit. The high-waisted tapered is for the person with muscled upper legs that still wants to wear comfortable tapered jeans. The mid-rise slim is our standard fit. The Olaf Hussein jean takes a modern take on a classic 5-pocket style. Made from unwashed high quality Japanese selvage fabrics, with classic and refined details. These details include a unique selvage zipper and hand-stitched green vegetable tanned leather patch with embossing.
What’s your favorite piece from the collection?
That’s our classic 5-pocket design. This 13 oz. sanforized selvedge denim has been dyed with a natural indigo and sourced from the Kuroki Mill in Okayama, Japan. These jeans feature a unique Japanese selvedge zipper, hand-brushed gold button from Italy and a hand-stitched green vegetable tanned leather patch with embossing. It is also the inspiration for designs in later collections.
Whats your favorite place to shop for denim in Amsterdam?
There isn’t a particular district to shop for denim, but Tenue de Nimes is definitely one of my favorite shops for denim in Amsterdam. They offer a good collection of modern and traditional denim and there is a beautiful mix between product and interior. Every store carries jeans these days, but not all of them have the staff to get you the right pair.
Tsutsugaki: Indigo Textiles From Japan
Japanese textiles have been a hot topic in denim over the past few season’s with designers across the board looking to antique craft techniques like boro patchworking, sashiko stitch techniques as well as traditional print and indigo dye methods.
Japanese aficionados will be excited to discover that the Musee Guimet in Paris has opened an exhibition featuring the little known Japanese folk art of Tsutsugaki. Tsutsugaki is a resist dye technique which uses a rice paste glue for the resists. Inside the exhibition (running July 10 through October 7, 2013) visitors will find a plethora of examples of this ancient craft ranging from decorated hangings, covers and clothes, most of which are being shown for the first time outside of Japan. This dying technique was most popular in the late Edo period between the early 1600s and the mid-1800s. Families would commission these textiles to commemorate important events such as births and marriages.
For more information on the show head over to the Musee Guimet website where you can read more about the artworks on display as well as special events and guided tours.
Tsutsugaki: Indigo Textiles of Japan (July 10 – October 7, 2013)
Exhibition ticket: € 8
The museum is open every day except Tuesdays from 10am to 6pm.
Japanese textiles have been a hot topic in denim over the past few season’s with designers across the board looking to antique craft techniques like boro patchworking, sashiko stitch techniques as well as traditional print and indigo dye methods.
Japanese aficionados will be excited to discover that the Musee Guimet in Paris has opened an exhibition featuring the little known Japanese folk art of Tsutsugaki. Tsutsugaki is a resist dye technique which uses a rice paste glue for the resists. Inside the exhibition (running July 10 through October 7, 2013) visitors will find a plethora of examples of this ancient craft ranging from decorated hangings, covers and clothes, most of which are being shown for the first time outside of Japan. This dying technique was most popular in the late Edo period between the early 1600s and the mid-1800s. Families would commission these textiles to commemorate important events such as births and marriages.
For more information on the show head over to the Musee Guimet website where you can read more about the artworks on display as well as special events and guided tours.
Tsutsugaki: Indigo Textiles of Japan (July 10 – October 7, 2013)
Exhibition ticket: € 8
The museum is open every day except Tuesdays from 10am to 6pm.
Kapital Fall/Winter 2013 Lookbook
A Japanese favorite, Kapital launches into Fall/Winter 13 with the release of their latest seasonal catalogue, Indigenous, which presents the latest assortment of handcrafted denims.
Kapital fans will be happy to hear about the release of the Kojima-based brand’s release of their 38th catalogue. Paying tribute to the indigenous people around, the latest lookbook is full of globe-trotting influences from traditional Japanese fabrics, Americana classics and the eccentric layering the Japanese label is known for.
The book is photographed once again by long-time partner Eric Kvatek, who shot the photos in the stunning woodland landscapes of New Zealand. Meanwhile, Kapital designer Kiro Hirata provides the perfect wardrobe to complement the location.
This time around the brand introduces a range of eclectic prints and patterns along with a rich and earthy palette of color to complement the usual indigo hues. Some beautiful textures are added to the mix this season with fur pelts, folky knits and of course boro and sashiko accents throughout.
A Japanese favorite, Kapital launches into Fall/Winter 13 with the release of their latest seasonal catalogue, Indigenous, which presents the latest assortment of handcrafted denims.
Kapital fans will be happy to hear about the release of the Kojima-based brand’s release of their 38th catalogue. Paying tribute to the indigenous people around, the latest lookbook is full of globe-trotting influences from traditional Japanese fabrics, Americana classics and the eccentric layering the Japanese label is known for.
The book is photographed once again by long-time partner Eric Kvatek, who shot the photos in the stunning woodland landscapes of New Zealand. Meanwhile, Kapital designer Kiro Hirata provides the perfect wardrobe to complement the location.
This time around the brand introduces a range of eclectic prints and patterns along with a rich and earthy palette of color to complement the usual indigo hues. Some beautiful textures are added to the mix this season with fur pelts, folky knits and of course boro and sashiko accents throughout.
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Introducing: Flying Horse Jeans
Earlier this year, London’s Carnaby Street took on a new addition to their growing denim portfolio, Flying Horse, a lifestyle jeanswear brand specializing in unique indigo dyeing.
While the UK is not seen as the epicenter of denim design, England and surrounding countries have given birth to some of the most progressive brands in Europe. Labels like Huit, Dawson Denim and Tender are some of the core names supporting and helping to rebuild England’s domestic manufacturing. One of the brands to emerge on the map is Flying Horse, brain child of friends and co-founders David Rix and Sanjay Madan.
Founded in 2010, with the spirit of South East Asia and a lust for adventure at its core, the label has established itself with its unique indigo dyeing methods and specialist construction techniques. David’s extensive knowledge of design from working with Ralph Lauren and VF Europe, coupled with Sanjay’s 30 years of experience in jeans manufacturing, has given the brand the right foot to break into the currently over-saturated denim market.
The video above highlights the brand’s meticulous care and attention to detail, with a behind-the-scenes look into the manufacturing process at Sanjay’s factory. Each process is considered thoroughly, from the initial purity of the cotton and rope dyeing processes to achieve maximum depth of purity in the indigo, through to the signature yellow selvedge or the hand-finished touches. Other notable features include laser branding on the waistband, embossed hardware and rear leather patch with scripted FH logo.
Located on Newburgh St., just a stones throw from Carnaby St., the Flying Horse flagship ties in the founders’ inspirations of South East Asia, using reclaimed beams to create the reflection of the brand’s spirit in the store. The interior incorporates white oiled reclaimed Fleet Street pine boards on the floors with sun bleach effect wood cladding to provide a natural backdrop for the jeanswear with suitcases and tropical plants adding to the traveler theme.
Visit Flying Horse’s website to find out more behind the brand or take a trip to their store at:
8 Newburgh Street,
Newburgh Quarter
London
W1F 7RJ
Earlier this year, London’s Carnaby Street took on a new addition to their growing denim portfolio, Flying Horse, a lifestyle jeanswear brand specializing in unique indigo dyeing.
While the UK is not seen as the epicenter of denim design, England and surrounding countries have given birth to some of the most progressive brands in Europe. Labels like Huit, Dawson Denim and Tender are some of the core names supporting and helping to rebuild England’s domestic manufacturing. One of the brands to emerge on the map is Flying Horse, brain child of friends and co-founders David Rix and Sanjay Madan.
Founded in 2010, with the spirit of South East Asia and a lust for adventure at its core, the label has established itself with its unique indigo dyeing methods and specialist construction techniques. David’s extensive knowledge of design from working with Ralph Lauren and VF Europe, coupled with Sanjay’s 30 years of experience in jeans manufacturing, has given the brand the right foot to break into the currently over-saturated denim market.
The video above highlights the brand’s meticulous care and attention to detail, with a behind-the-scenes look into the manufacturing process at Sanjay’s factory. Each process is considered thoroughly, from the initial purity of the cotton and rope dyeing processes to achieve maximum depth of purity in the indigo, through to the signature yellow selvedge or the hand-finished touches. Other notable features include laser branding on the waistband, embossed hardware and rear leather patch with scripted FH logo.
Located on Newburgh St., just a stones throw from Carnaby St., the Flying Horse flagship ties in the founders’ inspirations of South East Asia, using reclaimed beams to create the reflection of the brand’s spirit in the store. The interior incorporates white oiled reclaimed Fleet Street pine boards on the floors with sun bleach effect wood cladding to provide a natural backdrop for the jeanswear with suitcases and tropical plants adding to the traveler theme.
Visit Flying Horse’s website to find out more behind the brand or take a trip to their store at:
8 Newburgh Street,
Newburgh Quarter
London
W1F 7RJ
Newburgh Quarter
London
W1F 7RJ
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Hypebeast Presents: Nudie Jeans Gothenburg Repair Station
Online menswear editorial Hypebeast, visits Gothenburg Sweden – the home of Nudie Jeans to take a behind-the-scenes look at their Repair Station at the denim brand’s flagship store.
Striving for healthier and more sustainable consumption patterns, Nudie’s Repair Shop taps the brand’s award-winning Repair: Reuse: Reduce program that gives your favorite pair of Nudie Jeans a second chance. The highly skilled denim experts in-store are on hand to help with all types of specialist denim services like bespoke repairs and alterations — for free! This idea also helps create an environment where visitors can engage in a complete Nudie Jeans experience in an integrated and interactive way.
As part of Hypebeast’s “Process“ film series (also see “Hemming with a Union Special” by Self Edge), the videography team heads to the birthplace of Nudie Jeans to speak with one of the experts, Gustav, who handles their Repair Station concept. With the opening of the new Nudie London concept store and repair station, this film provides a firsthand insight on the repair process and the techniques and machines used by the denim specialists at the Gothenburg flagship.
Nudie Jeans repair stations can be found in Stockholm, Sydney and more recently, London. Nudie fans will also be happy to hear that they can buy some of their favorite archive styles at a discount thanks to the secondhand offerings available at these locations as well as the option of trading in an old pair of jeans for 20% off a new pair.
Online menswear editorial Hypebeast, visits Gothenburg Sweden – the home of Nudie Jeans to take a behind-the-scenes look at their Repair Station at the denim brand’s flagship store.
Striving for healthier and more sustainable consumption patterns, Nudie’s Repair Shop taps the brand’s award-winning Repair: Reuse: Reduce program that gives your favorite pair of Nudie Jeans a second chance. The highly skilled denim experts in-store are on hand to help with all types of specialist denim services like bespoke repairs and alterations — for free! This idea also helps create an environment where visitors can engage in a complete Nudie Jeans experience in an integrated and interactive way.
As part of Hypebeast’s “Process“ film series (also see “Hemming with a Union Special” by Self Edge), the videography team heads to the birthplace of Nudie Jeans to speak with one of the experts, Gustav, who handles their Repair Station concept. With the opening of the new Nudie London concept store and repair station, this film provides a firsthand insight on the repair process and the techniques and machines used by the denim specialists at the Gothenburg flagship.
Nudie Jeans repair stations can be found in Stockholm, Sydney and more recently, London. Nudie fans will also be happy to hear that they can buy some of their favorite archive styles at a discount thanks to the secondhand offerings available at these locations as well as the option of trading in an old pair of jeans for 20% off a new pair.
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Levi’s Commuter Series Fall/Winter 13
Since its launch back in 2011, Levi’s innovative commuter series has provided inner-city cyclists with a level of function and form that was unseen outside of the purist cycle community. Drawing on the brands iconic design silhouettes, the diffusion line offers bike-friendly separates that balance performance fabrics and multi-functional features.
For Fall 13, Levi’s focuses on the challenges cyclists face with fluctuating temperatures and weather conditions throughout the winter. New developments include a range of innovative fabrics that serve riders with advancements in breathability and insulation helping to counter shifts in weather and body temperature. Technical benefits include water and stain repellence, sweat and moisture wicking, and antimicrobial protection.
New additions to the collection include the 504 straight fit jean, featuring stretch-woven fabrics and 3M Scotchlite™ and Sanitized® details. Two new jackets styles are included in the line, a parka, and a hooded trucker, each with additional features like reflective tape, and angled pockets, all designed to enhance mobility, safety, and protection. Other pieces in the collection include raglan tees, slim fit trousers with a reinforced seat, long sleeve shirts with an extended tail for extra coverage.
Look for the collection at select retailers and via Levi’s online store in the coming months.
Since its launch back in 2011, Levi’s innovative commuter series has provided inner-city cyclists with a level of function and form that was unseen outside of the purist cycle community. Drawing on the brands iconic design silhouettes, the diffusion line offers bike-friendly separates that balance performance fabrics and multi-functional features.
For Fall 13, Levi’s focuses on the challenges cyclists face with fluctuating temperatures and weather conditions throughout the winter. New developments include a range of innovative fabrics that serve riders with advancements in breathability and insulation helping to counter shifts in weather and body temperature. Technical benefits include water and stain repellence, sweat and moisture wicking, and antimicrobial protection.
New additions to the collection include the 504 straight fit jean, featuring stretch-woven fabrics and 3M Scotchlite™ and Sanitized® details. Two new jackets styles are included in the line, a parka, and a hooded trucker, each with additional features like reflective tape, and angled pockets, all designed to enhance mobility, safety, and protection. Other pieces in the collection include raglan tees, slim fit trousers with a reinforced seat, long sleeve shirts with an extended tail for extra coverage.
Look for the collection at select retailers and via Levi’s online store in the coming months.
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Cruise 2014 Denim Runway Highlights – Part II
Denim has always been a staple for Chloe’s diffusion line See by Chloe and Cruise 2014 proved no different with the designer Clare Waight Keller looking to a retro palette of redcast indigos to update the season. Girly silhouettes like short denim skirts, culottes and rompers paired with sneakers and tees gave the collection a fresh and young feel, while hybrid trucker styling on dresses and zip through jackets gave a contemporary edge.
Boyishness and femininity mixed harmoniously in Balmain’s Cruise collection. Olivier Rousteing was influenced by ballerinas and their tutus, but wanted to pair that shape with something sporty. House signatures like elaborate embroidery appeared alongside laser and controlled destruction treatments to create a beautiful visual and tactile texture. While the collection featured the usual body conscious silhouettes that house is famed for, it also introduced a range of new relaxed and slouched shapes like peplum skirts, cowboy shirts and overalls.
The denim in Louis Vuitton’s Cruise show ranged from bohemian to tailored with a strong retro ’70s thread that ran throughout. Contrast in both tone and texture was a key theme with baby blue chambray juxtaposed against rich inky indigos, while exploded herringbones and shredded fringing provided a stark contrast to the cleaner surfaces on offer.
Alexander McQueen’s Cruise 2014 show nodded to the `40s, riffing on the uniform working women wore while their husbands were at war. Sarah Burton’s uniform felt artisanal with boro patchwork techniques created from 11 different washes. A strong workwear reference was felt throughout each looks, with slimmer and tailored styling injecting a modern and feminine touch. Subtle plays with volume like peplum and flared accents also added a more stylised approach.
House of Holland’s take on Cruise 2014 referenced the `60s with bellbottom and shift silhouettes. Patterns were key with oversized starbursts, patchwork and polka dots pairing with dark indigo, while flouncy sleeves and skirts added femininity and volume.
Denim has always been a staple for Chloe’s diffusion line See by Chloe and Cruise 2014 proved no different with the designer Clare Waight Keller looking to a retro palette of redcast indigos to update the season. Girly silhouettes like short denim skirts, culottes and rompers paired with sneakers and tees gave the collection a fresh and young feel, while hybrid trucker styling on dresses and zip through jackets gave a contemporary edge.
Boyishness and femininity mixed harmoniously in Balmain’s Cruise collection. Olivier Rousteing was influenced by ballerinas and their tutus, but wanted to pair that shape with something sporty. House signatures like elaborate embroidery appeared alongside laser and controlled destruction treatments to create a beautiful visual and tactile texture. While the collection featured the usual body conscious silhouettes that house is famed for, it also introduced a range of new relaxed and slouched shapes like peplum skirts, cowboy shirts and overalls.
The denim in Louis Vuitton’s Cruise show ranged from bohemian to tailored with a strong retro ’70s thread that ran throughout. Contrast in both tone and texture was a key theme with baby blue chambray juxtaposed against rich inky indigos, while exploded herringbones and shredded fringing provided a stark contrast to the cleaner surfaces on offer.
Alexander McQueen’s Cruise 2014 show nodded to the `40s, riffing on the uniform working women wore while their husbands were at war. Sarah Burton’s uniform felt artisanal with boro patchwork techniques created from 11 different washes. A strong workwear reference was felt throughout each looks, with slimmer and tailored styling injecting a modern and feminine touch. Subtle plays with volume like peplum and flared accents also added a more stylised approach.
House of Holland’s take on Cruise 2014 referenced the `60s with bellbottom and shift silhouettes. Patterns were key with oversized starbursts, patchwork and polka dots pairing with dark indigo, while flouncy sleeves and skirts added femininity and volume.
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Crackers Presents “My Archive” Book by Antonio di Battista
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Italian denim designer, Antonio Di Battista collaborates with Crackers magazine for an exclusive “My Archive” edition featuring a retrospective of Battista’s expansive vintage collection.
Netherlands-based blog Long John directed us towards a great new release from Crackers magazine that takes a detailed look into Antonio de Battista’s (Blue Blanket) prized vintage archive. The book marks the second release for Battista, after Transportation that he released later last year in collaboration with Men’s File. Focusing specifically on dates between 1900 and 1950, the book pulls together some of the finest pieces of Battista’s 3,000 piece collection that he has amassed over his 20+ years working in the denim industry. The beautifully shot and lavishly illustrated pages are filled with rare, must-see designs, from everything from the “Big 3″, to other never-seen-before indigo workwear pieces that will inspire any menswear fashion designers, stylists and denim affectionados alike.
Italian denim designer, Antonio Di Battista collaborates with Crackers magazine for an exclusive “My Archive” edition featuring a retrospective of Battista’s expansive vintage collection.
Netherlands-based blog Long John directed us towards a great new release from Crackers magazine that takes a detailed look into Antonio de Battista’s (Blue Blanket) prized vintage archive. The book marks the second release for Battista, after Transportation that he released later last year in collaboration with Men’s File. Focusing specifically on dates between 1900 and 1950, the book pulls together some of the finest pieces of Battista’s 3,000 piece collection that he has amassed over his 20+ years working in the denim industry. The beautifully shot and lavishly illustrated pages are filled with rare, must-see designs, from everything from the “Big 3″, to other never-seen-before indigo workwear pieces that will inspire any menswear fashion designers, stylists and denim affectionados alike.
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Bleulab – Pure Los Angeles Collection
When we think of denim we think of indigo or at least 100% cotton garments. But recently, with authentic denim styling at the forefront of the fashion world, brands are looking to re-work these iconic pieces in non-denim fabrications. The trucker jacket appears in leather, suede, even plastic and fur, while classic 5-pocket jeans have been re-worked in velvet and jersey. These new materials and colors have given classic jeanswear a completely new and luxurious perspective for the coming seasons.
One of the brands at the forefront of this revolution is Bleulab. The LA-based brand showcased their latest innovations at the S/S 14 edition of Premium in Berlin that included the forthcoming Pure collection, a range of non-reversible 5-pocket styles focused on fit and innovative comfort fabrics.
The two bodies Anti-fit and Skinny Boy, are constructed from perforated suede, perforated faux leather, fabrics with super stretch and innovative wash techniques. The dry treatments are done 100% by hand with 0% water usage in downtown Los Angeles with grinding, hand sanding, creases, compressed air, and tumble dry treatments.
We spoke with Designer and Founder Carl Jones on the Collection:
Can you talk us through the concept of the Pure collection?
Pure is not about denim, or indigo or that type of fabrication. Its about new, innovative fabrications that were bringing to the market that may not necessarily lend themselves to our reversible element of our company. The idea behind the name Pure is based on our design and manufacturing all being done in Los Angeles. Its a fabrication that we don’t necessarily usually treat as denim, we don’t use any chemicals to wash it, theres no hand sanding, it will just be a novelty bottoms product from Bleulab.
Can you explain in more detail about the fabrics used.
This is a fabric that we’ve done really well with for the past two season’s. It’s an ultra suede, polyester and spandex blend, and to make it more breathable and wearable, we decided to make it perforated. That’s where it really came from for spring/summer. And the reaction has been phenomenal.
Have you noticed a shift in consumer demand for these comfort fabrics?
Yes. We think there is so much denim in the market and I don’t think the market needs another 5-pocket jean so thats what this is about. Pure innovation, pure novelty fabrics other than denim. Thats what we feel the market is missing.
Being a vertical company must mean you can experiment with a lot of new ideas.
We can turn things around very quickly, like in a day. We can have a new fabric in, cut it, make it and look at it that night. To have that availability and resources, especially with something new like Pure that we want to test, make it and put it into store right away and see that reaction. Thats really important today. We call speed to market.
When we think of denim we think of indigo or at least 100% cotton garments. But recently, with authentic denim styling at the forefront of the fashion world, brands are looking to re-work these iconic pieces in non-denim fabrications. The trucker jacket appears in leather, suede, even plastic and fur, while classic 5-pocket jeans have been re-worked in velvet and jersey. These new materials and colors have given classic jeanswear a completely new and luxurious perspective for the coming seasons.
One of the brands at the forefront of this revolution is Bleulab. The LA-based brand showcased their latest innovations at the S/S 14 edition of Premium in Berlin that included the forthcoming Pure collection, a range of non-reversible 5-pocket styles focused on fit and innovative comfort fabrics.
The two bodies Anti-fit and Skinny Boy, are constructed from perforated suede, perforated faux leather, fabrics with super stretch and innovative wash techniques. The dry treatments are done 100% by hand with 0% water usage in downtown Los Angeles with grinding, hand sanding, creases, compressed air, and tumble dry treatments.
We spoke with Designer and Founder Carl Jones on the Collection:
Can you talk us through the concept of the Pure collection?
Pure is not about denim, or indigo or that type of fabrication. Its about new, innovative fabrications that were bringing to the market that may not necessarily lend themselves to our reversible element of our company. The idea behind the name Pure is based on our design and manufacturing all being done in Los Angeles. Its a fabrication that we don’t necessarily usually treat as denim, we don’t use any chemicals to wash it, theres no hand sanding, it will just be a novelty bottoms product from Bleulab.
Can you explain in more detail about the fabrics used.
This is a fabric that we’ve done really well with for the past two season’s. It’s an ultra suede, polyester and spandex blend, and to make it more breathable and wearable, we decided to make it perforated. That’s where it really came from for spring/summer. And the reaction has been phenomenal.
Have you noticed a shift in consumer demand for these comfort fabrics?
Yes. We think there is so much denim in the market and I don’t think the market needs another 5-pocket jean so thats what this is about. Pure innovation, pure novelty fabrics other than denim. Thats what we feel the market is missing.
Being a vertical company must mean you can experiment with a lot of new ideas.
We can turn things around very quickly, like in a day. We can have a new fabric in, cut it, make it and look at it that night. To have that availability and resources, especially with something new like Pure that we want to test, make it and put it into store right away and see that reaction. Thats really important today. We call speed to market.
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Levi’s 501 Interpretations – 140 Year Anniversary Limited-Edition Book
Levi’s continues its 140 year anniversary celebrations with the launch of its limited edition book, Levi’s® 501® Interpretations, depicting 501 of the best interpretations of the original blue jean.
Last night (July 10) Levi’s invited some of London’s biggest denim obsessives to their exclusive photography exhibition as part of the launch of the forthcoming 501 Interpretations edition book. Held at Soho’s Rook & Raven Gallery, the preview showcased the results from the campaign launched earlier this year where Levi’s invited thousands of fans to submit their photos on www.levis501.com to showcase the jean’s versatility and personal style. A number of notables within fashion (including a collab with i-D magazine) and influencers from around the world were also shot, including Christopher Raeburn and Susie Lau from the UK, and US celebrities Kate Bosworth, M83, Wiz Khalifa and Anna Kendrick.
Over the past two months, Levi’s creative team have been combing through the images to curate a selection of the best and most unique of these interpretations from around the world – 501 images to be exact – to feature in the limited edition book, Levi’s® 501® Interpretations.
The book is set to release at the end of July at selected Flagship stores, but with only 501 available be sure to grab one while you can.
Levi’s continues its 140 year anniversary celebrations with the launch of its limited edition book, Levi’s® 501® Interpretations, depicting 501 of the best interpretations of the original blue jean.
Last night (July 10) Levi’s invited some of London’s biggest denim obsessives to their exclusive photography exhibition as part of the launch of the forthcoming 501 Interpretations edition book. Held at Soho’s Rook & Raven Gallery, the preview showcased the results from the campaign launched earlier this year where Levi’s invited thousands of fans to submit their photos on www.levis501.com to showcase the jean’s versatility and personal style. A number of notables within fashion (including a collab with i-D magazine) and influencers from around the world were also shot, including Christopher Raeburn and Susie Lau from the UK, and US celebrities Kate Bosworth, M83, Wiz Khalifa and Anna Kendrick.
Over the past two months, Levi’s creative team have been combing through the images to curate a selection of the best and most unique of these interpretations from around the world – 501 images to be exact – to feature in the limited edition book, Levi’s® 501® Interpretations.
The book is set to release at the end of July at selected Flagship stores, but with only 501 available be sure to grab one while you can.
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Modefabriek Blueprint S/S 14
Now in its 6th season, Modefabriek’s Blueprint room has been steadily building a strong portfolio of like-minded denim brands from across Europe and Netherlands. Its small scale approach and focus on re-injecting authenticity and craftsmanship into the process makes it appealing to both international labels likeNudie, Lee and Kuyuchi as well as local budding Dutch labels. Unlike some of the larger scale trade shows on the European denim calendar, Blueprint’s intimate space creates a friendly ‘truckers vibe’ where exhibitors and designers are often just as interested in each other’s products and stories as visitors are. This friendly environment is clearly visible through the honest collaborative approach each brand shows, which really gives their products the best opportunity to shine.
Fashion recruitment and consultancy firm, HTNK presented a curated space showcasing some of Amsterdam’s homegrown talent that included denim labels like MickKeus, Olaf Hussein (watch out for brand profiles soon) as well as a selection of students from the House of Denim who presented some of the results from their first year.
Upcoming Dutch labels Benzak Denim Developers, Tulip Jeans and Mr. Handy Denim Repair collaborated together to create a small-scale atelier that presented their handcrafted approach to denim. Jesper Remmerswaal of Tulip shared his passion of old industrial machinery bringing in his 6900 Union Special belt loop and a 101 Reece keyhole machine where he demonstrated to visitors how he makes his Tulip Jeans. Another live craft project on the stand came from Melvin Rakers of Mr. Handy Denim Repair who also brought in some of his vintage machinery to show off his repair skills. Meanwhile, Lennaert Nijh of BDD showcased a small exhibition of work-in-progress fades on his dry Japanese denims. Lennaert also took the initiative take direct orders via his BDD crowdfunding page which you can help support here (39 hours left so act quick).
The international well-known jeans-collector from Switzerland, Ruedi Karrer (aka Swiss Jeans Freak) of The Swiss Jeans Museum, presented part of his unique and extensive denim collection in celebration of its 40th anniversary. For readers who are unfamiliar with Ruedi, he has been collecting vintage denim since 1973 in his local town of Graubünden. Over the years he has collected an amazing collection of denim via internet auctions, travelling, second hand stores and flea markets, which has amounted to over 12,000 pieces!
Anyone who spent 5 minutes on Ruedi’s stand would have no doubt experienced his overwhelming passion for denim and obsessive knowledge. His acute eye for authentic fades (selected judge for Iron Hearts 25OZ fade contest) and hard-to-find pieces has encouraged Ruedi to pick up some of the most rare items from the likes of Levi’s, Lee, Wrangler, Big Star, Carhartt, Diesel, Edwin. The expo of heavy fades was curated by Wouter Munnichs (www.long-john.nl) and was split into The Big 3 Jackets (vintage truckers from ’50s, ’60s and ’70s), The New Ones (fades from newcomer jeans in the denim market) and Oldies (featuring the big 3 Levi’s, Lee and Wrangler). Here’s some quotes from the man himself on a few of the key pieces on show at Blueprint:
“These jeans came from a Japanese student I saw in Utrecht while having lunch with friends. I skipped my meal and ran out across the street to stop him and I told him I need to have these! We couldn’t communicate because of the language barrier so I had to make a sign on my watch of a time to meet me back at this spot later in the day. So I called my boss and told him I have top skip the afternoon at work, met the guy later and convinced him after 4 hours to leave the jeans with me. I gave him a pair of original Levi’s ’70s jeans made in France – it was hard for me to let them go but I knew I must have these ones.”
“These I have broken in myself, two and half years and never washed. I have 3 steps to breaking in my denim: First I wear them in the office, then when I notice people are starting to flee away from me then I know to downgrade to my leisure pant for biking and walking in the mountains. And then when they are really falling apart, they are nearly ready for the final stage which is as my work pant to be used out in the forest for construction work. And in the last stage I don’t care if they are dirty, smelly, whatever because they don’t enter back into the living room I just throw them in the bunk house, I take a shower and then switch to my new jeans.”
“This is 60 years old, blanket lined Big E Levi’s, never washed for at least 5-7 years from anAmerican man in the rocky mounytains. You can see with love he was wearing it over the years and it was still functional because the blanket was still intact even though the outer denim was completely destroyed. You can still see some of the original indigo on the yoke.”
“I did this expo because I want to keep the spirit of raw denim alive for the younger generation. I hope that by showing these authentic fades they will understand the evolution and by sharing my passion it will wear of on them too.”
Now in its 6th season, Modefabriek’s Blueprint room has been steadily building a strong portfolio of like-minded denim brands from across Europe and Netherlands. Its small scale approach and focus on re-injecting authenticity and craftsmanship into the process makes it appealing to both international labels likeNudie, Lee and Kuyuchi as well as local budding Dutch labels. Unlike some of the larger scale trade shows on the European denim calendar, Blueprint’s intimate space creates a friendly ‘truckers vibe’ where exhibitors and designers are often just as interested in each other’s products and stories as visitors are. This friendly environment is clearly visible through the honest collaborative approach each brand shows, which really gives their products the best opportunity to shine.
Fashion recruitment and consultancy firm, HTNK presented a curated space showcasing some of Amsterdam’s homegrown talent that included denim labels like MickKeus, Olaf Hussein (watch out for brand profiles soon) as well as a selection of students from the House of Denim who presented some of the results from their first year.
Upcoming Dutch labels Benzak Denim Developers, Tulip Jeans and Mr. Handy Denim Repair collaborated together to create a small-scale atelier that presented their handcrafted approach to denim. Jesper Remmerswaal of Tulip shared his passion of old industrial machinery bringing in his 6900 Union Special belt loop and a 101 Reece keyhole machine where he demonstrated to visitors how he makes his Tulip Jeans. Another live craft project on the stand came from Melvin Rakers of Mr. Handy Denim Repair who also brought in some of his vintage machinery to show off his repair skills. Meanwhile, Lennaert Nijh of BDD showcased a small exhibition of work-in-progress fades on his dry Japanese denims. Lennaert also took the initiative take direct orders via his BDD crowdfunding page which you can help support here (39 hours left so act quick).
The international well-known jeans-collector from Switzerland, Ruedi Karrer (aka Swiss Jeans Freak) of The Swiss Jeans Museum, presented part of his unique and extensive denim collection in celebration of its 40th anniversary. For readers who are unfamiliar with Ruedi, he has been collecting vintage denim since 1973 in his local town of Graubünden. Over the years he has collected an amazing collection of denim via internet auctions, travelling, second hand stores and flea markets, which has amounted to over 12,000 pieces!
Anyone who spent 5 minutes on Ruedi’s stand would have no doubt experienced his overwhelming passion for denim and obsessive knowledge. His acute eye for authentic fades (selected judge for Iron Hearts 25OZ fade contest) and hard-to-find pieces has encouraged Ruedi to pick up some of the most rare items from the likes of Levi’s, Lee, Wrangler, Big Star, Carhartt, Diesel, Edwin. The expo of heavy fades was curated by Wouter Munnichs (www.long-john.nl) and was split into The Big 3 Jackets (vintage truckers from ’50s, ’60s and ’70s), The New Ones (fades from newcomer jeans in the denim market) and Oldies (featuring the big 3 Levi’s, Lee and Wrangler). Here’s some quotes from the man himself on a few of the key pieces on show at Blueprint:
“These jeans came from a Japanese student I saw in Utrecht while having lunch with friends. I skipped my meal and ran out across the street to stop him and I told him I need to have these! We couldn’t communicate because of the language barrier so I had to make a sign on my watch of a time to meet me back at this spot later in the day. So I called my boss and told him I have top skip the afternoon at work, met the guy later and convinced him after 4 hours to leave the jeans with me. I gave him a pair of original Levi’s ’70s jeans made in France – it was hard for me to let them go but I knew I must have these ones.”
“These I have broken in myself, two and half years and never washed. I have 3 steps to breaking in my denim: First I wear them in the office, then when I notice people are starting to flee away from me then I know to downgrade to my leisure pant for biking and walking in the mountains. And then when they are really falling apart, they are nearly ready for the final stage which is as my work pant to be used out in the forest for construction work. And in the last stage I don’t care if they are dirty, smelly, whatever because they don’t enter back into the living room I just throw them in the bunk house, I take a shower and then switch to my new jeans.”
“This is 60 years old, blanket lined Big E Levi’s, never washed for at least 5-7 years from anAmerican man in the rocky mounytains. You can see with love he was wearing it over the years and it was still functional because the blanket was still intact even though the outer denim was completely destroyed. You can still see some of the original indigo on the yoke.”
“I did this expo because I want to keep the spirit of raw denim alive for the younger generation. I hope that by showing these authentic fades they will understand the evolution and by sharing my passion it will wear of on them too.”
Norse Store Interviews Thomas Bojer of Denimhunters on Raw Denim
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Norse Projects highlights their selection of raw jeans with a short discussion with Denimhunters editor-in-chief Thomas Bojer. Bringing a wealth of experience from his specialist blog, Thomas offers his advice on fit, wash and general denim knowledge.
Despite being one of the youngest denim blogs on the internet, Denimhunters has gained a strong cult following among indigo-lovers and menswear aficionados alike. In a short two years, editor-in-chief Thomas Bojer has built the site from a single outlet for his personal passion for denim to a team of contributing editors from around the globe, offering up well versed reviews, denim news and in-depth guides on all you need to know topics in denim. Thomas’ hard work and passion most recently earned Denimhunters a spot as HB Partner on the well respected Hypebeast. So it was no surprise that local Copenhagen brand Norse Projectstapped him for their short video on denim.
In the video, Thomas highlights where his love for denim began, his fascination for fades as well as some sound advice on fit and washing your raws. If you are not already familiar with Denimhunters be sure to add it to your daily feed.
Norse Projects highlights their selection of raw jeans with a short discussion with Denimhunters editor-in-chief Thomas Bojer. Bringing a wealth of experience from his specialist blog, Thomas offers his advice on fit, wash and general denim knowledge.
Despite being one of the youngest denim blogs on the internet, Denimhunters has gained a strong cult following among indigo-lovers and menswear aficionados alike. In a short two years, editor-in-chief Thomas Bojer has built the site from a single outlet for his personal passion for denim to a team of contributing editors from around the globe, offering up well versed reviews, denim news and in-depth guides on all you need to know topics in denim. Thomas’ hard work and passion most recently earned Denimhunters a spot as HB Partner on the well respected Hypebeast. So it was no surprise that local Copenhagen brand Norse Projectstapped him for their short video on denim.
In the video, Thomas highlights where his love for denim began, his fascination for fades as well as some sound advice on fit and washing your raws. If you are not already familiar with Denimhunters be sure to add it to your daily feed.
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StyleCore Meets “The Godfather of Denim” Adriano Goldschmied
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LA based fashion channel StyleCore gains access to denim legend Adriano Goldschmied for an exclusive video interview in his wash centre CM Laundry in downtown LA.
Known as “The Godfather of Denim”, Adriano Goldschmied is one of the denim industries most notable figures. As one of the early creative denim heads in the ’70s, alongside Francois Girbaud and Renzo Rosso, Goldschmied has been instrumental in the development of the premium jeans industry in Europe and then in the US. Up until this point, denim was not seen as a luxury item, considered only a workwear material. Goldschmied’s dedication to developing the softer, stretchier and more appealing fabrics that we know today has gone a long way in changing this attitude.
In 1980 he formed “the Genius Group”, a think tank of the most artistic and influential minds in the fashion industry including Katherine Hamnett, Betsey Johnson, Paul Harvey, David Mantey and more. Amongst these names were also some of the 54 denim international brands he has helped found, including Replay, Diesel, Evisu, and Gap 1969 as well as his own ventures AG Jeans, Citizens of Humanity and Goldsign.
In this short video by LA based video channel StyleCore, Adriano takes host Melissa Magsaysay through the jeansmaking process and shares his secret to crafting the perfact pair of jeans. Set at Goldschmied’s infamous CM Laundry, the epicentre for Citizen’s of Humanity’s innovation in fabrics, treatments and washes, the video takes a tour of the wash facility with Goldschmied revealing some of his best kept secrets. The film highlights his typically Italian hands-on approach and obsession with quality and craftsmanship. What he says as being “artisanal, rather than industrial”.
LA based fashion channel StyleCore gains access to denim legend Adriano Goldschmied for an exclusive video interview in his wash centre CM Laundry in downtown LA.
Known as “The Godfather of Denim”, Adriano Goldschmied is one of the denim industries most notable figures. As one of the early creative denim heads in the ’70s, alongside Francois Girbaud and Renzo Rosso, Goldschmied has been instrumental in the development of the premium jeans industry in Europe and then in the US. Up until this point, denim was not seen as a luxury item, considered only a workwear material. Goldschmied’s dedication to developing the softer, stretchier and more appealing fabrics that we know today has gone a long way in changing this attitude.
In 1980 he formed “the Genius Group”, a think tank of the most artistic and influential minds in the fashion industry including Katherine Hamnett, Betsey Johnson, Paul Harvey, David Mantey and more. Amongst these names were also some of the 54 denim international brands he has helped found, including Replay, Diesel, Evisu, and Gap 1969 as well as his own ventures AG Jeans, Citizens of Humanity and Goldsign.
In this short video by LA based video channel StyleCore, Adriano takes host Melissa Magsaysay through the jeansmaking process and shares his secret to crafting the perfact pair of jeans. Set at Goldschmied’s infamous CM Laundry, the epicentre for Citizen’s of Humanity’s innovation in fabrics, treatments and washes, the video takes a tour of the wash facility with Goldschmied revealing some of his best kept secrets. The film highlights his typically Italian hands-on approach and obsession with quality and craftsmanship. What he says as being “artisanal, rather than industrial”.
Milan Men’s S/S 14 Runway Highlights – Spring/Summer 2014
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Donatella Versace celebrated the extreme discipline of athletes for her S/S 14 menswear show and by association – the aesthetics of sports apparel was particularly apparent throughout the collection. Kinesiology tape was an interesting design detail bringing vivid color to the jeans, while straps and zippers lent a functional element. Classic baroque-inspired prints tied back to the brands heyday of the ’80s and also tied in with J.W. Anderson’s debut prints for the recent Versus collection in New York. Other notable elements included statement matte prints burnished over stark white jeans and a denim jacket ergonomically pieced together from lace.
The first season to emerge under Nicola Formichetti’s eye as the new artistic director, Diesel Black Gold tapped into some innovative new surface techniques for S/S 14. A dark and moody palette of deep indigo and black complemented the classic workwear and motorcycle styling, but laser laundries, indigo piecing and slick, tar-like coatings gave the collection a new slant for S/S 14.
Etro’s S/S 14 collection showcased a new take on the Wild West trend, taking inspiration from Mexican cowboy styling with sombreros, bandanna prints and cowboy boots. Denim tapped rodeo styling with decorative yokes and jean panels as well as playful embellished side seams to complete the look. Indigo-on-indigo print and pattern gave the collection an eclectic, purist feel, however the show was certainly a fun, high-color affair.
Designers Pierfrancesco Gigliotti and Maurizio Modico of the Italian fashion House Frankie Morello took a more subdued and casual approach to their usual statement looks this season. A decidedly collegiate theme drove the collection with neat varsity jackets, Oxford shirts and slouchy chino-like jeans evoking the heydays of ’50s Ivy-League. Intricate and beautiful indigo jacquards injected these preppy silhouettes with a dash of tone and texture, while short/blazer combinations were giving an active spin with team stripes along hems and “Frankie Morello” team logo text embroidered along knit inserts on the sleeves.
A bohemien runway of luxurious denim surface was very apparent on Vivienne Westwood’s S/S 14 Indian-inspired collection. Innovative gradient weaves, delicate prints and jacquard boro surfaces sat beautifully with jeweled thong sandals and paisley swirl silk shirting to create a theatrical and artisanal collection. In contrast, clean, sporty indigo pieces broke up the eclectic vintage styling, giving the runway a fresh, modern angle.
Andrea Incontri’s S/S 14 show explored bright indigo casts, vintage nautical styling and bold, wide-set stripes in what was a very clean, premium take on the maritime theme. Clean whites and ecrus stood out against a deep indigo palette while azure-cast, quilted surfaces and retro woven striped tees gave styling a 50′s slant. All denims were used in rigid form, creating a glossy, premium attitude for S/S 14.
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Tonight in London: Donna Ida and Simeon Farrar
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As we know, statement DIY denim is in. So tonight’s London Donna Ida event over in West London is set to get the juices and print colors flowing. The renowned denim store has teamed with London fashion designer Simeon Farrar to create one-of-a-kind, statement denim.
Famous for his printed tees, Simeon will be customizing any jeans bought on the day with animal prints, layered colors and even hand-applied painter looks. Festivities go on until 11pm. The event is part of the Elizabeth Street Summer party in Belgravia and raises money for Battersea dogs and cats home
As we know, statement DIY denim is in. So tonight’s London Donna Ida event over in West London is set to get the juices and print colors flowing. The renowned denim store has teamed with London fashion designer Simeon Farrar to create one-of-a-kind, statement denim.
Famous for his printed tees, Simeon will be customizing any jeans bought on the day with animal prints, layered colors and even hand-applied painter looks. Festivities go on until 11pm. The event is part of the Elizabeth Street Summer party in Belgravia and raises money for Battersea dogs and cats home
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The Yard: Backdoor Dry Goods, Malaysia
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So it seems the purist denim market is continuing to expand. We read about the latest store to open over on the Nordic Denim House Blog the other day and its in Subang, Malaysia!
We have recently blogged about the growing scene over in Bankok with the recent Pronto denim carnival, the thriving vintage scene and new brand Via Piana so this proves there is a burgeoning scene emerging in South-East Asia.
Stocking brands like Naked & Famous, Momotaro and Iron Heart, the store’s focus is selvedge and rigid, high-quality indigos.
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Get The Look: Effortless Ombre Jeans
Ombre jeans are the perfect answer to your spring style dilemma: how do I update my look? Without going the way of intense patterns or neon hues, you can give your denim collection an update by adding a pair ofombre gradient jeans, like this pair of high-rise jeans pictured on street style blogger Katrina Bay of Pumps & Kicks below. Paired with a simple short sleeved top and a brimmed hat, it’s an instant casual-cool look you can wear from day to night effortlessly.
Image via Pumps & Kicks.
Shop our favorite ombre & gradient jeans below:
1. Nasty Gal Cloud Daze Skinny Jeans 2. Free People Ombre Cropped Skinny Jeans 3. Oasis Skinny Jean In Ombre Effect
4. Cheap Monday Narrow Jeans 5. Nasty Gal Fade Out Skinny Jeans 6. alice + olivia Ombre Dip Dye Skinny Jeans
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Rihanna In Destroyed Acne Boyfriend Jeans
Rihanna was recently spotted in a pair of Acne boyfriend jeans, complete with massive gaping holes (we can repair those for you if you ever change your taste for shredded denim, RiRi). She balanced the tomboy tears with a pair of pointy-toed heels and an intense chain necklace.
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Cruise 2014 Denim Runway Highlights
The Cruise/Resort shows are continuing to hit our runway quick-look carousel but so many great denim shows have showcased, we thought we’d share some of our picks with you:
Karl Lagerfeld’s Cruise show tapped a 1920s resort-wear attitude with plenty of signature nods to classic Coco: bouclé fabrics, neat, boxy tailoring and strings of statement pearls. Denim has played a part in the last few Chanel shows and Cruise 2014 was no exception. The design house played with new laser technology to create tonal indigo pattern on jeans for both guys and girls while women’s silhouettes took a widened cut with the denim culotte a key item.
The Givenchy men’s and women’s shows both showcased strong some denim for Cruise 2014. Women’s looks explored sculptural, modern takes on dresses and skirts exploring full silhouettes and tiered volume. While clean denims created a premium feeling, raw edges and contrast tobacco top stitching cemented the looks in casualwear. The men’s looks channeled classic jeanswear silhouettes reworked in statement florals for a bold, print-heavy line-up.
Glossy and technical outerwear was the denim focus at IBC. Indigo color-blocked macs, parkas and outdoorsy dresses made up the key pieces, while waxed and resin coatings added a premium attitude to more basic items. Denim is definitely following a more premium, high-shine trend into Summer 13 as explored in our recent Premium Clean report.
A designer that regularly explores denim as a key material, Jen Kao pushed the boundaries for Cruise 14, with denim styling cleverly reworked in new materials, a trend we’ve recently explored in our Non-Denim report. Classic jeans were reworked in statement and graphic prints channeling a strong modernist vibe and an unexpected bottle green palette injected the collection with an off-kilter look. Trucker styling was translated onto items from shirts to dresses and jackets and boyish and boxy silhouettes were key.
As one of the fashion industries budding stars, Wes Gordon (winner of Fashion Group’s International Rising Star award 2012) has been under the watchful eye of international press over the past few season’s. Drawing inspiration from `90s golden girls Carolyn Bassette Kennedy and Gwyneth Paltrow, the designer looked to a selection of pared-down silhouettes like popover shifts, high-waisted pencil skirts and shrunken trucker shapes. These classic denim shapes were given a polished finish with dense Tencel fabrics worked into crisp rounded shapes with the ultra glossy faces creating a two-tone appearance. Other key items included a sateen trucker/mac hybrid and a metallic leather jean — both of which tapped into his customers more daring side.
Olivier Theyskens consistently delivers on-trend denim silhouettes season-on-season and his Cruise 14 collection proved no different with a tight edit of “real essential” silhouettes. But this didn’t mean simple skinnies or classic truckers but rather instantly relatable and unique items that would stand out above the basics. This uniqueness was achieved through beautifully executed washes, technical prints and slick finishes. Particular highlights included a three-button stance denim shirt drenched in a leather-look indigo resin coating, a slouchy `90s pant with asymmetric pleats and a shredded white wash trucker. Elsewhere, a monochrome geometric print skinny added a statement appeal, while a cropped ergonomic trouser added a more sleeker touch to the deconstructed collection.
Jonathan Simkhai’s cruise collection demonstrated that the perennial trend for indigo color blocking is showing no signs for slowing. For resort, Simkhai took an ultra clean and tactile approach to the patchwork technique playing with tone, shape and texture. Pale chambray and dark raw denims were fused together in symmetrical rectangles on clean coveralls and sleeveless shirt-dresses, while a collared bomber jacket combined a tactile mix of grey heather knit body, denim sleeves with leather accents at the collar and pocket flaps. Meanwhile, a fitted denim spaghetti dress with seamed white cotton piping introduced a sexier confidence.
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So it seems the purist denim market is continuing to expand. We read about the latest store to open over on the Nordic Denim House Blog the other day and its in Subang, Malaysia!
We have recently blogged about the growing scene over in Bankok with the recent Pronto denim carnival, the thriving vintage scene and new brand Via Piana so this proves there is a burgeoning scene emerging in South-East Asia.
Stocking brands like Naked & Famous, Momotaro and Iron Heart, the store’s focus is selvedge and rigid, high-quality indigos. They don’t yet have a website but they do have a Facebook page you can check out and they’ve made this nice little video below too:
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Earlier this month (May 9), Denham hosted the official store opening of their latest retail concept in the famous P.C. Hooftraat shopping district in Amsterdam.
Open to the public this month is Denham’s newest addition to its portfolio of Amsterdam stores, representing the third dedicated retail presentation following the women’s standalone and the HQ location. Opening in line with the brands 5th anniversary, the Hobbemastraat store is the first in the city to showcase the entire Denham offering for both men as well as the new womenswear line led by the new designer Marianne Fay. The store, Denham’s 7th standalone internationally, also introduces a new element to the Denham brand experience including the exclusive Private Wardrobe concept – an invitational shopping experience offering customers access to a selection of limited edition products not presented anywhere else in the world.
The store has been designed by the in-house creative team to match the brand’s distinct design aesthetic and product culture. Like previous stores, a strong customer service element is carried through in the new location including a drop-off for denim alterations and repairs, providing customers access to the nearby Denham Service Co. located under the HQ on Prinsengracht. Other notable design highlights include a ticket office-inspired reception area, bespoke neon signage, as well as all the fundamental brand signatures like tailor scissors and a creative
fusion
of antique and modern furnishings.
And of course the store opening wouldn’t have been complete without a party to celebrate it all. Last week, on May 23rd, Jason invited down his close friends and family to cut the blue tape of the new location and raise a glass to the brand’s fifth birthday. As well as taking in the new interior and exclusive products, guests were treated to a selection of cocktails by one of Amsterdam’s finest mixologists, as well as Jason’s famous “For Godness Sake” beverages. A scissor sculture was set up in the garden area where guests could sign their names in celebration of Denham’s milestone moment.
For more information on Denham, visit the brand’s webpage where you can see more detailed photos as well as a short video of Jason’s opening speech. Alternatively, if your in Amsterdam, check out the new store located at:
Hobbermastraat 8 1071 ZA Amsterdam
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Gisele Bündchen‘s latest appearance in the BLK DNM campaign may not be so obvious at first, unless you’re one of those people who know her backside as well as you know her face. And yes, we’re sure there are some of you out there. The campaign features the super model bending over an open car hood, as if she’s going to figure out what’s wrong with it and fix it. But what do we know? Maybe she’s a trained mechanic in addition to looking that good in a pair of jeans.
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A seasonal favorite at Denim by Premiere Vision, Spanish technology provider Jeanologia presented its F/W 14 collection at last week’s show with an exhibition showcasing the limitless possibilities of its sustainable laser technology.
Each season at PV, Jeanologia introduces a fresh assortment of directional patterns that both inspire and highlight the versatility and speed of production using their state-of-the-art garment finishing machines. Previous season’s have seen the brand showcase live demonstrations of their laser machines as well as creative collections with company affiliate, François Girbaud.
For F/W 14, the Spanish brand collaborated with nine exhibiting weavers including Isko, Orta and Cone Denim for the unique “Jeanetics” exhibition. Each of the unique designs were created using the brands eco-friendly Laser, G2 and E-Soft technologies, which save water, energy and chemicals as well as remove dangerous techniques for operators. The collection provided clear examples of how the processes can reproduce the lastest market trends and authentic vintage surface effects in a faster, more productive and more sustainable ways. The collection was created using the brands new Easy Mark software — a design tool that Jeanologia has developed for designers to create their own designs.
Pieces throughout the collection showcased everything from micro patterns, boro and graffiti styles to more multi-dimensional that combine in laser etching and burn-out effects. An interactive tool was displayed with each garment to highlight the processes and stages that went into creation. Take a look at a few of the videos that were on display below:
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For F/W 14, Turkish denim mill Orta teams up once again with L.A. denim specialists THVM for a creative collaboration that combines the latest denim trends with the most innovative technological fabric and finishing advances.
The F/W 14 edition of Denim by Premiere Vision delivered yet another inspirational selection of innovative denim projects. One of the most exciting collaborations came from leading denim providers Orta and progressive denim label THVM, who continue their creative partnership from last year’s show.
Known for their directional dye methods, THVM was tapped to rework Orta’s innovative denims using a various techniques that showcase the ultimate creative possibilities of the fabrics. Split into three stories, the collections were based around the key concepts: A strong sense of fashion, solid performance, and in-creased comfort. Each story was accompanied by a short film that brings to life each of the themes.
Old Loom
Inspired by the original workwear history of denim, this vintage-inspired story uses modern spinning and weaving techniques to reproduce authentic timeworn looks. The collection included a range of utility silhouettes like boiler suits, sailor pants, chore jackets and crisp work shirts. While the constructions played with original workwear weaves like chambray and slubby denims, the finishes nodded to the oil stained and heavily abraded looks associated with traditional railroad uniforms. Each of the garments were beautifully finished with unique details like union style buttons, braces and rusted pocket watch chains.
Winter Blues
A core trend that has been evolving and has showed no signs of slowing over the past year, the indigo color-block story was explored through various yarn dye, over dye and coated techniques to showcase the dimension of the tone. Using both rigid and stretch fabrics, the designers interpreted a vivid contrast of deep blacks, dark blues with rich highlights and stark ecrus in paneled geometric effects.
FitsWell
A key fabric trend at this season’s show, this performance stretch story looked at both flexibility and high recovery in denim and ready-to-dye fabrics. Constructions were designed in a range of nine to twelve ounces with a variety of compositions such as cotton, lyocell, viscose, polyester or elastane. Giving the items an active touch, the THVM designers looked to ergonomic seaming using a kaleidoscopic range of paneled and patched digital laundries and raw indigos to create a graphic effect on super-slim silhouettes.
To view the full lookbook and read more, head over to Orta’s webpage where you can check out all the stories and watch the videos.
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Levi’s celebrates the 140th anniversary of the iconic 501 jean. In tribute to this milestone, the legendary blue jeans label has created a short film tracking the design evolutions of the 501 and its influence on culture throughout the decades.
The Stylesight denim team has been keeping track and taking part in Levi’s 501 140th anniversary celebrations this year, with their opening party in LA. and most recently, Lynn Downey’s stop off in London. But today, May 20th marks the exact day that the blue jean was born.
In celebration of this, Levi’s has released a short film paying tribute to all the eras, movie stars, fashion icons, and generations of people that have defined the 501 as one of the most worn and loved jeans of today.
Happy Birthday Levi’s! Here’s to another 140 years!
Levi’s 501 – 140th Anniversary Archive Workshop with Lynn Downey
This coming Monday, May 20, 2013, marks a milestone moment, both in the world of fashion and in American history. 140 years ago to this day, the original denim tailor Jacob Davis and San Francisco-based businessman Levi Strauss received the patent to their copper riveted waist overalls, marking the birth of one of the world’s most celebrated garments: the blue jeans.
With such an extensive and treasured history, Levi’s has ensured that its record of timeless products are never forgotten. Safely preserved inside their headquarters in San Francisco lies an archive of over 20,000 rare and unique examples of Levi’s clothing and artifacts dating back as early as 1873. The figure behind this vast accumulation is none other than California native Lynn Downey, who for the past 24 years, has been acting as Levi’s in-house archivist, overseeing the preservation and documentation of the company’s revered archival collection. It has been said that Lynn has done more for Levi’s history than any other person, piecing together their broken history (bringing back and collecting what Levi’s had lost in the [1906] earthquake and subsequent fire ) they have had over the past 140 years. An idol in the denim industry, Lynn has been championed for solely for curating Levi’s private library of denim from a mere 5,000-piece back-catalogue, to a collection that’s now worth approximately £1.9m.
Lynn’s UK visit was part of Levi’s ongoing celebrations as part of their 140th anniversary of the 501 jean. Lynn travelled with her a selection of rare archive 501 jeans from as early as 1873. What made the event even more special was that this was the first time the archive 501 jeans have traveled from the archives in San Francisco to the UK. Some of the key pieces included one of the earliest 501s from 1880, the 1890 501 “Calico Mine” found in the Mojave Desert in 1948, as well as more novelty pieces like an ’80s 501 signed by none other than Mick Jagger of the Rolling Stones.
Taking an in-depth retrospective of the Levi’s history and the evolution of the 501, Lynn talked the small crowd through some of the key features of the jeans on display as well as reciting a few tales behind each of the pieces. Her enthusiasm and passion behind the product, quick wit and excellent sense of humor made the already rich history even more pleasant to hear. After Lynn’s exceptional presentation, the audience was invited to take an up-close look at some of these relics. Here’s what we saw that day, accompanied by some of Lynn’s fabulous quotes.
“The five-pocket jean started life as a four-pocket jean in 1873. This is the closest to what we have so far to what the original would have looked like. I can only date it to a span of dates because certain design features lived in combination of others. I know this was made 1873 – 1886.”
“I speculate that this pair of jeans was owned by a cowboy — from the the wrinkle nesting at the back of the knee, it is identical to pairs that I KNOW have been worn by cowboys. And the damage here to the leg openings is very similar to boot or spur damage, spur bites — I love that term — which is very typical of cowboys as well.”
“I also buy the vintage photographs, letters, papering, marketing — everything that expresses how we did our business, how we sold the jeans, how people felt about Levi’s.” - Letter sent to Levi’s from customer dated 1954
“This pair I’ve had independently appraised is worth about $150,000, which is hilarious because when I go to Tokyo and tell people that, they say ‘is that all?!’ To me they are priceless, naturally.”
“One day I open up this box from Levi’s Japan and I pull the tissue paper apart and it says this. And I screamed ‘Oh My God it Says Mick Jagger on it.’ So we have a jacket and a pair of jeans signed by the whole group.”501 Jean from The Rolling Stones Voodoo Lounge tour 1995 Tokyo, Japan.
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PARIS GARMENT AND FABRIC EXHIBITION NEXT WEEK (PREMIERE VISION)
22 AND 23TH MAY 2013
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Miley Cyrus bares some butt cheek in the latest issue of Maxim, and naturally all we can think of is how badly she needs Denim Therapy! While this burgeoning pop star might want to let it all hang out in a pair ofripped jeans, we think most people would prefer not to have quite this much ventilation in their back side. If that’s the case with your favorite jeans, check out our expert denim repair and alteration services and see what we can do for you.
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With its roots firmly in the ’70s, a new brand emerges from Los Angeles called De Chemin Jeans.
The premium denim scene in L.A. is welcoming a new addition into the industry, but this new brand already has a history in apparel; it has been launched by Jason Gaon, the son of ’70s label Chemin De Fer. You can see the similarities from a simple Google image search: a decorative and curvaceous back yoke being at the heart of the brand’s styling and a distinct retro flair driving the modern denim collection.
That “reverse yoke” is not only there for decoration, Chemin has engineered it to “enhance the appearance of your bottom, employing more than 12 pattern pieces. The waistband is sculpted to frame your shape, and the detailing on the hips is inspired by aerodynamic design to lengthen the legs.”
Jason Gaon: “If my father had access to the finest mills, craftsmanship and technology of today what would he do? He would do de Chemin jeans.”
The brand is also able to proudly claim the “Made in America” tag, with all premium denim coming from the renowned Cone Denim, and all manufacturing taking place in Los Angeles. Being very new to the scene, the jeans are only for sale in La Maison Rouge and Vanity Room in L.A., but watch this space as they are set to hit many more stores over the coming weeks.
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Once again, CFE organizes the 14th Edition of its European Catwalk which will be held in the 21th CPM Collection Première Moscow International Trade Fair from the from 4th to 7th September 2013.
The members of CFE and of its collaborators (Anivec, Asepri, NOVA
Child, CNA Federmoda, Finatex) will beneficiate from exceptional
conditions to show their SPRING/SUMMER 2014 collections in the unique
European Kids Fashion Show in CPM. For further information about this
discount, please contact CFE.
This is a good opportunity to promote their brands in one of the most promising markets!
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Today, Edwin Europe unveiled its latest capsule collection, Surplus — a 15-piece collection with a focus on minimalism and functionality.
As part of Edwin Europe’s expansion on its foundation in denim, the label looks to a more modernist collection to sit neatly alongside the main line. Aimed at the more discerning male within the growing premium mid-market, the Surplus collection uses a selection of hand-picked premium fabrics, including Japanese selvedge denim, organic denim, technical fine ripstop and an ample offering of mid-tone twill. The tightly edited collection is created from dead-stock fabrics — meaning that units on offer are very limited. The collection was showcased at the F/W 13 edition of Bread & Butter, where the Stylesight denim team got a chance to take a close and detailed look at the range on offer:
Key pieces in the line include the S+1 jean (based on the ED-80 fit) offered in a sleek black selvedge and an 11oz organic denim featuring a beautiful multi-color nep. A range of smart chore coats, simple shirts and shorts are offered as part of the mid-season drop with the broken hickory stripe and a sharp black chambray as particular highlights. To create a clean premium finish, all fabrics are unwashed and each item is detailed with tonal topstitching with each piece signed off with an embroidered “+” symbol, positioned to respect the subtle aesthetic of each garment.
The Suplus collection is available now at the Edwin Store London, selected Edwin stock lists across Europe and online.
Levi’s Vintage Clothing Fall/Winter 13 Lookbook
For LVC’s Fall/Winter 13 collection, the team pays tribute to two iconic eras of American style: Detroit’s ’60s Motown musical revolution and the West Coast’s sunny ’70s style.
Each season the Levi’s Vintage Clothing team dips into the iconic Levi’s archive, pouring through some 20,000 rare and antique artifacts, uncovering secrets of their past and then recreating them for today through faithful reproductions. With items dating back as early as 1873 LVC’s collections and references have come far and wide. From rustic turn-of-the-century workwear to retro ’50s hot rod and tough ’30s biker style, there is a part of Levi’s treasured history and timeless products to uncover.
The first collection of LVC’s F/W 13 collection pays homage to the slick styling of the people that were part of the explosive “Boom Town” music scene emerging in ’60s Detroit. Levi’s sportswear collections became the perfect fit to this new groove with youths soaking up the sounds in their checkerboard rodeo shirts, 518 fits, bedford cords and turtleneck sweaters with retro knitted patterns. At that time, the Motor City was the heart of America’s car industry and the collection also nods to this hardworking style with a selection of tough leather coats, koverup jeans and sherpa lined jackets.
The second part of the collection pulls from Levi’s orange tab era. The brand first used the Orange Tab on a line of affordable, slim-fitting jeans, jackets and shirts designed for the Young American’s of the ’60s and ’70s. To this day, the Orange Tab is synonymous with simple and clean design as well as the free and easy spirit of the times. LVC revive this family of true American classics offering up 684 and 606 flare fits, ’70s denim shirts in retro bright casts, baby blue chambrays and matte blacks. The collection is topped off with a selection of bold printed tees using faithful motifs and logos from the era.
As always the collection is presented in hardback form, split into the two stories and complimented with additional material from the relevant eras. Highlights from this season’s lookbook include retro illustrated fit guides, a step-by-step guide of how to wash, wear and care for your rigids as well as a “10 things you really oughta know about Levi’s Orange Tab” guideline.
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White-jeans-wearing-season has almost officially arrived, but what about putting a twist on this classic style? Hudson Jeans is releasing a line of white cut-off shorts and white skinny jeans dip-dyed in hues of cyan, magenta, and other tempting pastels. If you were looking for a way to add some interest to your spring look, this is it.
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Surprise, surprise—floral denim is back for spring!
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Brand To Watch: Forestin’ Gear
One of our favorite names was Japanese Forestin’ Gear. We noticed them last season at the Capsule trade show, but the brand were in their infancy and only had a limited amount of product. For F/W 13, however, everything has changed!
Being a Japanese brand and based out of the famed Okayama denim region, it made sense that Forestin’ Gear would explore denim within their range, but when we saw the F/W 13 stand at the most recent Capsule show, we were very pleasantly surprised! The brand has decided to entirely focus on indigo-on-indigo looks, all with an expedition-ready attitude.
The brand first emerged as an outdoors and expedition goods brand in May 2007, but this move to use solely denim was a recent decision. All garments are super functional with down-filled and quilted surfaces, utilitarian pockets, functional drawstrings, and storm-flaps incorporated into the designs. Indigo color blocking is also key to the range, as the brand use several shades of blues from deep and saturated indigo to barely-there and washed out hues.
The artwork and photography that the brand uses to accompany these multi-shade pieces is similarly indigo-centric and evocative of the outdoorsy-element of the brand. Snow-covered mountains, wooded cabins, and forests perfectly conjure the feeling of expedition-wear. The stand out piece in the collection is a floor-length down-filled parka and the mid-Winter coat is the brand’s focus, but other standout pieces include a cargo pant and a multi-pieced hunting vest.
They are currently looking for US distribution so watch out for them over the next couple of seasons; we think they’ll be appearing all the coolest stores pretty soon!
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Tender Spring/Summer 13
William Kroll and his label Tender launches into S/S 13 with a range unique dying techniques like no other.
It has been said before that when you invest in a pair of Tender denim you are investing in a piece of denim history. Each season designer and founder, William Kroll introduces a combination of concepts from the past to create something innovative for today’s market. With Tender, every minute detail of each and every piece has a purpose and ultimately a high level of function.
One of the other notable features that makes the brand stand out from the plethora of other workwear labels in today’s market is their use of natural garment dyes. From purple logwood to woad and veggie dyes, William has tried it. This is an unbelievably painstaking and lengthy process, however the reward is a richness, depth, and variety of color which simply cannot be achieved in any other way.
For S/S 13 (Tender’s sixth seasonal production), William explores this process further with a range of 17oz unsanforized Japanese selvedge denims and 18oz English-woven cotton canvases hand-dyed with tan wattle and French woad. The result is a selection of jackets and jeans in beautiful earthy brown shades and rich indigo shades. The jeans are a particular highlight with the lighter contrast shade on the weft, while the jackets are finished with Saville Row tailores strap buttons, intended for trouser braces. These tough fabrics are also complimented with a selection of turquoise separates and accessories dyed from copper verdigris.
The collection includes a fireman’s jacket made with 17oz unsanforized Japanese denim and garment dyed with wattle — a natural dye that originates from Acacia wood. This jacket also features a one piece collar and a pleated back, while the pockets are lined with English calico and finish with kick-pressed, copper, dome rivets.
Created from the same Japanese fabric as the jacket, a selection of straight fitting jeans are offered in wattle and also the French woad. Unique details include triple stitched seat seams for durability, lined square hip pockets, copper rivets and a solid brass removable button. The pants are also sewn with English-spun 100% cotton thread, which takes on the color of the dye and will wear and fade with the garments to develop a beautifully unique wear pattern.
To read more on the collection, head over to the official Tender webpage or the new Trestle Shop where you can directly buy the products. You can also look on a selection of the Tender’s leading stockists includingUnionmade and Superdenim.
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Texworld exhibition in Paris. 16-19 September 2013. The best place for sourcing fabric and accesories. The best place for designers and fashion gurus.
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Last weekend, Tony Tonnaer, K.O.I. owner and founder
opened the doors to the second edition of his RRR pop-up store in
Amsterdam. Taking his sustainable credentials one step further, Tony
looks to local furniture store Raw Materials (famous for its use of
natural and recycled materials) to house his selection of eco-friendly
denims.
Amsterdam is widely known as Europe’s denim capital, but the city is also becoming recognised for its sustainable credentials. Tony Tonnaer, owner and founder of Kings of Indigo is
one of the key driving forces behind this movement. Having spent over
10 years in sustainable denim development (7 of which as Managing
Director at Kuyichi)
Tony has played a somewhat oversize role in the advocacy of the use of
sustainable practices in denim manufacturing. Since its launch in S/S
12, Tony has established K.O.I. as one of the leaders in the use of
organic and recycled cotton and most recently sustainable laundries with
its Kings of Laundries program.
Continuing where K.O.I. left off last year,
Tony has now launched his second edition of his RRR (Recycle, Re-use,
Repair) pop-up store in Amsterdam. For 2013, Tony has tapped the good
folks at Raw Materials
to host a store-within-store space to help communicate his sustainable
concept. The Raw Materials store is one of Amsterdam’s most-loved
homeware stores, stocking a wide variety of unusual furnitures, interior
accessories and decorations. Like K.O.I., the owners of Raw Materials
pride themselves on craftsmanship, passion and classic design. And
what’s more, both brands share the same sustainable credentials,
preferring to work with natural and/or recycled materials. As you can
see from the images the rustic and industrial interior of the store
plays the perfect backdrop to the selection of denims on offer.
Like last years store, the main focus of the pop-up is to promote
K.O.I.’s RRR concept. The program comes alive with an in-house denim
technician (Lennaert Nijgh of K.O.I. and Banzak Denim Developers) to
repair your broken jeans and recycling bin to donate your old wears. To
increase awareness, K.O.I. are also rewarding donations with a €20
discount on a fresh new K.O.I. purchase.
The temporary space at the Raw Materials store will be open through
May 12, 2013, so head over there quickly if you are in or looking to
travel to Amsterdam in the coming weeks.
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J Brand’s Neon & Pastel Colored Denim Summer Styles
J Brand‘s latest releases include pastel and neon colored jeans, as well as medium-wash blue jean shorts and destroyed white denim cut-offs. The combination of colors and textures add up to equal fresh summer style! Their denim legging capris come in hot pink and lemon yellow, featuring a side zip. The subdued light wash skinny jean is a summer basic that translates from work to leisure with ease. Finally, their cut-off shorts are fun and versatile. The only problem with this collection will be selecting which pieces to buy!
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Now You Can Shop Victoria Beckham Denim Online
Yes, it’s true. Victoria Beckham‘s e-shop is now up and running, so you can shop her denim collection and more. While not expansive, the site offers several go-to skinny jeans and some couture-friendly denim and knit pieces that are better than the average fashion mashups.
And, if you’re looking for a bargain, The Outnet is having quite a sale on Victoria Beckham jeans right now. Take a look.
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Always attentive to innovations, the Brazilian brand Espaço Fashion has partnered with one of the largest producers of textiles in the world, Vicunha. The Brazilian company is a national leader in the production of indigo and denim. The alliance between the companies aims to create jeans with a super exclusive technology.
Some denim shorts highlight neon hues, besides tacks and spikes. As for the washed-out vest, it features fluorescent silicone stripes. These models were manufactured withthe Premium stretch indigo Marina Dark (10.3 oz), from Vicunha. Another function for the fabric is the possibility of achieving different hues in one piece, from a very dark portion to the clearest detail, giving an urban effect to the models.
see fashion side> 
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Winter 2014 promises lots of brilliance and sophistication. Major international brands bet on metalized fabrics to warm the coldest season of the year, such as the renowned designers Marc Jacobs and Vivienne Westwood, who have already submitted their upcoming collections, respectively, in the fashion weeks of New York and London.
Always attentive to the main trends of the fashion world, Vicunha, one of the largest producers of fabric in Latin America, has developed a broad line of metalized denims and twills.
The fabrics are made on an indigo base. Thus, it is possible to create numerous effects such as worn in the washing. The items are made with 45% of stretch, allowing the manufacture of comfortable tops and pants. The color chart is composed of five tones: Marilyn (silver), Paris (rose), Stella (blue), Tiffany (green) and Kelly (fendi – a greenish shade of beige).
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Is The Double Denim Trend Only Just Getting Started?
We’ve got to say, double denim (or the Canadian Tuxedo, if you will), is sort of a standard for us at this point. We don’t bat an eyelash if we’re strolling through Brooklyn and spot someone stylishly sporting this mono-denim combo. WWD says it’s only just getting revved up, though, and it may be that the two-toneddenim-on-denim trend is about to streamline into same-wash territory. Excited? Horrified? Either way, click through to see their slide show and figure out whether this trend progression is for you.
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August 19, 2013, Las Vegas Convention Center, Las Vegas, NV
An Official Session of Sourcing at MAGIC, North America's Largest Sourcing Event
7th annual Sourcing Summit, an official program of Sourcing at MAGIC, which runs August 18-21, in conjunction with MAGIC Market Week, August 19-21. At Sourcing at MAGIC, manufacturers and component suppliers have the unique opportunity to connect with thousands of sourcing executives, designers, wholesalers, private label buyers and the top U.S. multi-unit retailers. An event featuring everything from apparel and footwear manufacturers, to fiber and fabric, to trims, to supply chain service providers, it showcases more than 1,100 resources from around the globe.
On the Program:
An expert analysis of sourcing, technology and supply chain best practices with executive insights from Apparel's annual Excellence in Global Sourcing Study, conducted in partnership with leading consulting firm Kurt Salmon.
A panel discussion with leading apparel and retail sourcing executives and industry experts on Mastering Technology to Create Tomorrow’s World Class Supply Chain.
The Cruise/Resort shows are continuing to hit our runway quick-look carousel but so many great denim shows have showcased, we thought we’d share some of our picks with you:
Karl Lagerfeld’s Cruise show tapped a 1920s resort-wear attitude with plenty of signature nods to classic Coco: bouclé fabrics, neat, boxy tailoring and strings of statement pearls. Denim has played a part in the last few Chanel shows and Cruise 2014 was no exception. The design house played with new laser technology to create tonal indigo pattern on jeans for both guys and girls while women’s silhouettes took a widened cut with the denim culotte a key item.
The Givenchy men’s and women’s shows both showcased strong some denim for Cruise 2014. Women’s looks explored sculptural, modern takes on dresses and skirts exploring full silhouettes and tiered volume. While clean denims created a premium feeling, raw edges and contrast tobacco top stitching cemented the looks in casualwear. The men’s looks channeled classic jeanswear silhouettes reworked in statement florals for a bold, print-heavy line-up.
Glossy and technical outerwear was the denim focus at IBC. Indigo color-blocked macs, parkas and outdoorsy dresses made up the key pieces, while waxed and resin coatings added a premium attitude to more basic items. Denim is definitely following a more premium, high-shine trend into Summer 13 as explored in our recent Premium Clean report.
A designer that regularly explores denim as a key material, Jen Kao pushed the boundaries for Cruise 14, with denim styling cleverly reworked in new materials, a trend we’ve recently explored in our Non-Denim report. Classic jeans were reworked in statement and graphic prints channeling a strong modernist vibe and an unexpected bottle green palette injected the collection with an off-kilter look. Trucker styling was translated onto items from shirts to dresses and jackets and boyish and boxy silhouettes were key.
As one of the fashion industries budding stars, Wes Gordon (winner of Fashion Group’s International Rising Star award 2012) has been under the watchful eye of international press over the past few season’s. Drawing inspiration from `90s golden girls Carolyn Bassette Kennedy and Gwyneth Paltrow, the designer looked to a selection of pared-down silhouettes like popover shifts, high-waisted pencil skirts and shrunken trucker shapes. These classic denim shapes were given a polished finish with dense Tencel fabrics worked into crisp rounded shapes with the ultra glossy faces creating a two-tone appearance. Other key items included a sateen trucker/mac hybrid and a metallic leather jean — both of which tapped into his customers more daring side.
Olivier Theyskens consistently delivers on-trend denim silhouettes season-on-season and his Cruise 14 collection proved no different with a tight edit of “real essential” silhouettes. But this didn’t mean simple skinnies or classic truckers but rather instantly relatable and unique items that would stand out above the basics. This uniqueness was achieved through beautifully executed washes, technical prints and slick finishes. Particular highlights included a three-button stance denim shirt drenched in a leather-look indigo resin coating, a slouchy `90s pant with asymmetric pleats and a shredded white wash trucker. Elsewhere, a monochrome geometric print skinny added a statement appeal, while a cropped ergonomic trouser added a more sleeker touch to the deconstructed collection.
Jonathan Simkhai’s cruise collection demonstrated that the perennial trend for indigo color blocking is showing no signs for slowing. For resort, Simkhai took an ultra clean and tactile approach to the patchwork technique playing with tone, shape and texture. Pale chambray and dark raw denims were fused together in symmetrical rectangles on clean coveralls and sleeveless shirt-dresses, while a collared bomber jacket combined a tactile mix of grey heather knit body, denim sleeves with leather accents at the collar and pocket flaps. Meanwhile, a fitted denim spaghetti dress with seamed white cotton piping introduced a sexier confidence.
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So it seems the purist denim market is continuing to expand. We read about the latest store to open over on the Nordic Denim House Blog the other day and its in Subang, Malaysia!
We have recently blogged about the growing scene over in Bankok with the recent Pronto denim carnival, the thriving vintage scene and new brand Via Piana so this proves there is a burgeoning scene emerging in South-East Asia.
Stocking brands like Naked & Famous, Momotaro and Iron Heart, the store’s focus is selvedge and rigid, high-quality indigos. They don’t yet have a website but they do have a Facebook page you can check out and they’ve made this nice little video below too:
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Earlier this month (May 9), Denham hosted the official store opening of their latest retail concept in the famous P.C. Hooftraat shopping district in Amsterdam.
Open to the public this month is Denham’s newest addition to its portfolio of Amsterdam stores, representing the third dedicated retail presentation following the women’s standalone and the HQ location. Opening in line with the brands 5th anniversary, the Hobbemastraat store is the first in the city to showcase the entire Denham offering for both men as well as the new womenswear line led by the new designer Marianne Fay. The store, Denham’s 7th standalone internationally, also introduces a new element to the Denham brand experience including the exclusive Private Wardrobe concept – an invitational shopping experience offering customers access to a selection of limited edition products not presented anywhere else in the world.
The store has been designed by the in-house creative team to match the brand’s distinct design aesthetic and product culture. Like previous stores, a strong customer service element is carried through in the new location including a drop-off for denim alterations and repairs, providing customers access to the nearby Denham Service Co. located under the HQ on Prinsengracht. Other notable design highlights include a ticket office-inspired reception area, bespoke neon signage, as well as all the fundamental brand signatures like tailor scissors and a creative
fusion
of antique and modern furnishings.
And of course the store opening wouldn’t have been complete without a party to celebrate it all. Last week, on May 23rd, Jason invited down his close friends and family to cut the blue tape of the new location and raise a glass to the brand’s fifth birthday. As well as taking in the new interior and exclusive products, guests were treated to a selection of cocktails by one of Amsterdam’s finest mixologists, as well as Jason’s famous “For Godness Sake” beverages. A scissor sculture was set up in the garden area where guests could sign their names in celebration of Denham’s milestone moment.
For more information on Denham, visit the brand’s webpage where you can see more detailed photos as well as a short video of Jason’s opening speech. Alternatively, if your in Amsterdam, check out the new store located at:
Hobbermastraat 8 1071 ZA Amsterdam
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Gisele Bündchen‘s latest appearance in the BLK DNM campaign may not be so obvious at first, unless you’re one of those people who know her backside as well as you know her face. And yes, we’re sure there are some of you out there. The campaign features the super model bending over an open car hood, as if she’s going to figure out what’s wrong with it and fix it. But what do we know? Maybe she’s a trained mechanic in addition to looking that good in a pair of jeans.
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A seasonal favorite at Denim by Premiere Vision, Spanish technology provider Jeanologia presented its F/W 14 collection at last week’s show with an exhibition showcasing the limitless possibilities of its sustainable laser technology.
Each season at PV, Jeanologia introduces a fresh assortment of directional patterns that both inspire and highlight the versatility and speed of production using their state-of-the-art garment finishing machines. Previous season’s have seen the brand showcase live demonstrations of their laser machines as well as creative collections with company affiliate, François Girbaud.
For F/W 14, the Spanish brand collaborated with nine exhibiting weavers including Isko, Orta and Cone Denim for the unique “Jeanetics” exhibition. Each of the unique designs were created using the brands eco-friendly Laser, G2 and E-Soft technologies, which save water, energy and chemicals as well as remove dangerous techniques for operators. The collection provided clear examples of how the processes can reproduce the lastest market trends and authentic vintage surface effects in a faster, more productive and more sustainable ways. The collection was created using the brands new Easy Mark software — a design tool that Jeanologia has developed for designers to create their own designs.
Pieces throughout the collection showcased everything from micro patterns, boro and graffiti styles to more multi-dimensional that combine in laser etching and burn-out effects. An interactive tool was displayed with each garment to highlight the processes and stages that went into creation. Take a look at a few of the videos that were on display below:
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For F/W 14, Turkish denim mill Orta teams up once again with L.A. denim specialists THVM for a creative collaboration that combines the latest denim trends with the most innovative technological fabric and finishing advances.
The F/W 14 edition of Denim by Premiere Vision delivered yet another inspirational selection of innovative denim projects. One of the most exciting collaborations came from leading denim providers Orta and progressive denim label THVM, who continue their creative partnership from last year’s show.
Known for their directional dye methods, THVM was tapped to rework Orta’s innovative denims using a various techniques that showcase the ultimate creative possibilities of the fabrics. Split into three stories, the collections were based around the key concepts: A strong sense of fashion, solid performance, and in-creased comfort. Each story was accompanied by a short film that brings to life each of the themes.
Old Loom
Inspired by the original workwear history of denim, this vintage-inspired story uses modern spinning and weaving techniques to reproduce authentic timeworn looks. The collection included a range of utility silhouettes like boiler suits, sailor pants, chore jackets and crisp work shirts. While the constructions played with original workwear weaves like chambray and slubby denims, the finishes nodded to the oil stained and heavily abraded looks associated with traditional railroad uniforms. Each of the garments were beautifully finished with unique details like union style buttons, braces and rusted pocket watch chains.
Winter Blues
A core trend that has been evolving and has showed no signs of slowing over the past year, the indigo color-block story was explored through various yarn dye, over dye and coated techniques to showcase the dimension of the tone. Using both rigid and stretch fabrics, the designers interpreted a vivid contrast of deep blacks, dark blues with rich highlights and stark ecrus in paneled geometric effects.
FitsWell
A key fabric trend at this season’s show, this performance stretch story looked at both flexibility and high recovery in denim and ready-to-dye fabrics. Constructions were designed in a range of nine to twelve ounces with a variety of compositions such as cotton, lyocell, viscose, polyester or elastane. Giving the items an active touch, the THVM designers looked to ergonomic seaming using a kaleidoscopic range of paneled and patched digital laundries and raw indigos to create a graphic effect on super-slim silhouettes.
To view the full lookbook and read more, head over to Orta’s webpage where you can check out all the stories and watch the videos.
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Levi’s celebrates the 140th anniversary of the iconic 501 jean. In tribute to this milestone, the legendary blue jeans label has created a short film tracking the design evolutions of the 501 and its influence on culture throughout the decades.
The Stylesight denim team has been keeping track and taking part in Levi’s 501 140th anniversary celebrations this year, with their opening party in LA. and most recently, Lynn Downey’s stop off in London. But today, May 20th marks the exact day that the blue jean was born.
In celebration of this, Levi’s has released a short film paying tribute to all the eras, movie stars, fashion icons, and generations of people that have defined the 501 as one of the most worn and loved jeans of today.
Happy Birthday Levi’s! Here’s to another 140 years!
Levi’s 501 – 140th Anniversary Archive Workshop with Lynn Downey
This coming Monday, May 20, 2013, marks a milestone moment, both in the world of fashion and in American history. 140 years ago to this day, the original denim tailor Jacob Davis and San Francisco-based businessman Levi Strauss received the patent to their copper riveted waist overalls, marking the birth of one of the world’s most celebrated garments: the blue jeans.
With such an extensive and treasured history, Levi’s has ensured that its record of timeless products are never forgotten. Safely preserved inside their headquarters in San Francisco lies an archive of over 20,000 rare and unique examples of Levi’s clothing and artifacts dating back as early as 1873. The figure behind this vast accumulation is none other than California native Lynn Downey, who for the past 24 years, has been acting as Levi’s in-house archivist, overseeing the preservation and documentation of the company’s revered archival collection. It has been said that Lynn has done more for Levi’s history than any other person, piecing together their broken history (bringing back and collecting what Levi’s had lost in the [1906] earthquake and subsequent fire ) they have had over the past 140 years. An idol in the denim industry, Lynn has been championed for solely for curating Levi’s private library of denim from a mere 5,000-piece back-catalogue, to a collection that’s now worth approximately £1.9m.
Lynn’s UK visit was part of Levi’s ongoing celebrations as part of their 140th anniversary of the 501 jean. Lynn travelled with her a selection of rare archive 501 jeans from as early as 1873. What made the event even more special was that this was the first time the archive 501 jeans have traveled from the archives in San Francisco to the UK. Some of the key pieces included one of the earliest 501s from 1880, the 1890 501 “Calico Mine” found in the Mojave Desert in 1948, as well as more novelty pieces like an ’80s 501 signed by none other than Mick Jagger of the Rolling Stones.
Taking an in-depth retrospective of the Levi’s history and the evolution of the 501, Lynn talked the small crowd through some of the key features of the jeans on display as well as reciting a few tales behind each of the pieces. Her enthusiasm and passion behind the product, quick wit and excellent sense of humor made the already rich history even more pleasant to hear. After Lynn’s exceptional presentation, the audience was invited to take an up-close look at some of these relics. Here’s what we saw that day, accompanied by some of Lynn’s fabulous quotes.
“The five-pocket jean started life as a four-pocket jean in 1873. This is the closest to what we have so far to what the original would have looked like. I can only date it to a span of dates because certain design features lived in combination of others. I know this was made 1873 – 1886.”
“I speculate that this pair of jeans was owned by a cowboy — from the the wrinkle nesting at the back of the knee, it is identical to pairs that I KNOW have been worn by cowboys. And the damage here to the leg openings is very similar to boot or spur damage, spur bites — I love that term — which is very typical of cowboys as well.”
“I also buy the vintage photographs, letters, papering, marketing — everything that expresses how we did our business, how we sold the jeans, how people felt about Levi’s.” - Letter sent to Levi’s from customer dated 1954
“This pair I’ve had independently appraised is worth about $150,000, which is hilarious because when I go to Tokyo and tell people that, they say ‘is that all?!’ To me they are priceless, naturally.”
“One day I open up this box from Levi’s Japan and I pull the tissue paper apart and it says this. And I screamed ‘Oh My God it Says Mick Jagger on it.’ So we have a jacket and a pair of jeans signed by the whole group.”501 Jean from The Rolling Stones Voodoo Lounge tour 1995 Tokyo, Japan.
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PARIS GARMENT AND FABRIC EXHIBITION NEXT WEEK (PREMIERE VISION)
22 AND 23TH MAY 2013
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Miley Cyrus bares some butt cheek in the latest issue of Maxim, and naturally all we can think of is how badly she needs Denim Therapy! While this burgeoning pop star might want to let it all hang out in a pair ofripped jeans, we think most people would prefer not to have quite this much ventilation in their back side. If that’s the case with your favorite jeans, check out our expert denim repair and alteration services and see what we can do for you.
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With its roots firmly in the ’70s, a new brand emerges from Los Angeles called De Chemin Jeans.
The premium denim scene in L.A. is welcoming a new addition into the industry, but this new brand already has a history in apparel; it has been launched by Jason Gaon, the son of ’70s label Chemin De Fer. You can see the similarities from a simple Google image search: a decorative and curvaceous back yoke being at the heart of the brand’s styling and a distinct retro flair driving the modern denim collection.
That “reverse yoke” is not only there for decoration, Chemin has engineered it to “enhance the appearance of your bottom, employing more than 12 pattern pieces. The waistband is sculpted to frame your shape, and the detailing on the hips is inspired by aerodynamic design to lengthen the legs.”
Jason Gaon: “If my father had access to the finest mills, craftsmanship and technology of today what would he do? He would do de Chemin jeans.”
The brand is also able to proudly claim the “Made in America” tag, with all premium denim coming from the renowned Cone Denim, and all manufacturing taking place in Los Angeles. Being very new to the scene, the jeans are only for sale in La Maison Rouge and Vanity Room in L.A., but watch this space as they are set to hit many more stores over the coming weeks.
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Once again, CFE organizes the 14th Edition of its European Catwalk which will be held in the 21th CPM Collection Première Moscow International Trade Fair from the from 4th to 7th September 2013.
The members of CFE and of its collaborators (Anivec, Asepri, NOVA
Child, CNA Federmoda, Finatex) will beneficiate from exceptional
conditions to show their SPRING/SUMMER 2014 collections in the unique
European Kids Fashion Show in CPM. For further information about this
discount, please contact CFE.
This is a good opportunity to promote their brands in one of the most promising markets!
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Today, Edwin Europe unveiled its latest capsule collection, Surplus — a 15-piece collection with a focus on minimalism and functionality.
As part of Edwin Europe’s expansion on its foundation in denim, the label looks to a more modernist collection to sit neatly alongside the main line. Aimed at the more discerning male within the growing premium mid-market, the Surplus collection uses a selection of hand-picked premium fabrics, including Japanese selvedge denim, organic denim, technical fine ripstop and an ample offering of mid-tone twill. The tightly edited collection is created from dead-stock fabrics — meaning that units on offer are very limited. The collection was showcased at the F/W 13 edition of Bread & Butter, where the Stylesight denim team got a chance to take a close and detailed look at the range on offer:
Key pieces in the line include the S+1 jean (based on the ED-80 fit) offered in a sleek black selvedge and an 11oz organic denim featuring a beautiful multi-color nep. A range of smart chore coats, simple shirts and shorts are offered as part of the mid-season drop with the broken hickory stripe and a sharp black chambray as particular highlights. To create a clean premium finish, all fabrics are unwashed and each item is detailed with tonal topstitching with each piece signed off with an embroidered “+” symbol, positioned to respect the subtle aesthetic of each garment.
The Suplus collection is available now at the Edwin Store London, selected Edwin stock lists across Europe and online.
Levi’s Vintage Clothing Fall/Winter 13 Lookbook
For LVC’s Fall/Winter 13 collection, the team pays tribute to two iconic eras of American style: Detroit’s ’60s Motown musical revolution and the West Coast’s sunny ’70s style.
Each season the Levi’s Vintage Clothing team dips into the iconic Levi’s archive, pouring through some 20,000 rare and antique artifacts, uncovering secrets of their past and then recreating them for today through faithful reproductions. With items dating back as early as 1873 LVC’s collections and references have come far and wide. From rustic turn-of-the-century workwear to retro ’50s hot rod and tough ’30s biker style, there is a part of Levi’s treasured history and timeless products to uncover.
The first collection of LVC’s F/W 13 collection pays homage to the slick styling of the people that were part of the explosive “Boom Town” music scene emerging in ’60s Detroit. Levi’s sportswear collections became the perfect fit to this new groove with youths soaking up the sounds in their checkerboard rodeo shirts, 518 fits, bedford cords and turtleneck sweaters with retro knitted patterns. At that time, the Motor City was the heart of America’s car industry and the collection also nods to this hardworking style with a selection of tough leather coats, koverup jeans and sherpa lined jackets.
The second part of the collection pulls from Levi’s orange tab era. The brand first used the Orange Tab on a line of affordable, slim-fitting jeans, jackets and shirts designed for the Young American’s of the ’60s and ’70s. To this day, the Orange Tab is synonymous with simple and clean design as well as the free and easy spirit of the times. LVC revive this family of true American classics offering up 684 and 606 flare fits, ’70s denim shirts in retro bright casts, baby blue chambrays and matte blacks. The collection is topped off with a selection of bold printed tees using faithful motifs and logos from the era.
As always the collection is presented in hardback form, split into the two stories and complimented with additional material from the relevant eras. Highlights from this season’s lookbook include retro illustrated fit guides, a step-by-step guide of how to wash, wear and care for your rigids as well as a “10 things you really oughta know about Levi’s Orange Tab” guideline.
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White-jeans-wearing-season has almost officially arrived, but what about putting a twist on this classic style? Hudson Jeans is releasing a line of white cut-off shorts and white skinny jeans dip-dyed in hues of cyan, magenta, and other tempting pastels. If you were looking for a way to add some interest to your spring look, this is it.
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Surprise, surprise—floral denim is back for spring!
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Brand To Watch: Forestin’ Gear
One of our favorite names was Japanese Forestin’ Gear. We noticed them last season at the Capsule trade show, but the brand were in their infancy and only had a limited amount of product. For F/W 13, however, everything has changed!
Being a Japanese brand and based out of the famed Okayama denim region, it made sense that Forestin’ Gear would explore denim within their range, but when we saw the F/W 13 stand at the most recent Capsule show, we were very pleasantly surprised! The brand has decided to entirely focus on indigo-on-indigo looks, all with an expedition-ready attitude.
The brand first emerged as an outdoors and expedition goods brand in May 2007, but this move to use solely denim was a recent decision. All garments are super functional with down-filled and quilted surfaces, utilitarian pockets, functional drawstrings, and storm-flaps incorporated into the designs. Indigo color blocking is also key to the range, as the brand use several shades of blues from deep and saturated indigo to barely-there and washed out hues.
The artwork and photography that the brand uses to accompany these multi-shade pieces is similarly indigo-centric and evocative of the outdoorsy-element of the brand. Snow-covered mountains, wooded cabins, and forests perfectly conjure the feeling of expedition-wear. The stand out piece in the collection is a floor-length down-filled parka and the mid-Winter coat is the brand’s focus, but other standout pieces include a cargo pant and a multi-pieced hunting vest.
They are currently looking for US distribution so watch out for them over the next couple of seasons; we think they’ll be appearing all the coolest stores pretty soon!
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Tender Spring/Summer 13
William Kroll and his label Tender launches into S/S 13 with a range unique dying techniques like no other.
It has been said before that when you invest in a pair of Tender denim you are investing in a piece of denim history. Each season designer and founder, William Kroll introduces a combination of concepts from the past to create something innovative for today’s market. With Tender, every minute detail of each and every piece has a purpose and ultimately a high level of function.
One of the other notable features that makes the brand stand out from the plethora of other workwear labels in today’s market is their use of natural garment dyes. From purple logwood to woad and veggie dyes, William has tried it. This is an unbelievably painstaking and lengthy process, however the reward is a richness, depth, and variety of color which simply cannot be achieved in any other way.
For S/S 13 (Tender’s sixth seasonal production), William explores this process further with a range of 17oz unsanforized Japanese selvedge denims and 18oz English-woven cotton canvases hand-dyed with tan wattle and French woad. The result is a selection of jackets and jeans in beautiful earthy brown shades and rich indigo shades. The jeans are a particular highlight with the lighter contrast shade on the weft, while the jackets are finished with Saville Row tailores strap buttons, intended for trouser braces. These tough fabrics are also complimented with a selection of turquoise separates and accessories dyed from copper verdigris.
The collection includes a fireman’s jacket made with 17oz unsanforized Japanese denim and garment dyed with wattle — a natural dye that originates from Acacia wood. This jacket also features a one piece collar and a pleated back, while the pockets are lined with English calico and finish with kick-pressed, copper, dome rivets.
Created from the same Japanese fabric as the jacket, a selection of straight fitting jeans are offered in wattle and also the French woad. Unique details include triple stitched seat seams for durability, lined square hip pockets, copper rivets and a solid brass removable button. The pants are also sewn with English-spun 100% cotton thread, which takes on the color of the dye and will wear and fade with the garments to develop a beautifully unique wear pattern.
To read more on the collection, head over to the official Tender webpage or the new Trestle Shop where you can directly buy the products. You can also look on a selection of the Tender’s leading stockists includingUnionmade and Superdenim.
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Texworld exhibition in Paris. 16-19 September 2013. The best place for sourcing fabric and accesories. The best place for designers and fashion gurus.
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Last weekend, Tony Tonnaer, K.O.I. owner and founder
opened the doors to the second edition of his RRR pop-up store in
Amsterdam. Taking his sustainable credentials one step further, Tony
looks to local furniture store Raw Materials (famous for its use of
natural and recycled materials) to house his selection of eco-friendly
denims.
Amsterdam is widely known as Europe’s denim capital, but the city is also becoming recognised for its sustainable credentials. Tony Tonnaer, owner and founder of Kings of Indigo is one of the key driving forces behind this movement. Having spent over 10 years in sustainable denim development (7 of which as Managing Director at Kuyichi) Tony has played a somewhat oversize role in the advocacy of the use of sustainable practices in denim manufacturing. Since its launch in S/S 12, Tony has established K.O.I. as one of the leaders in the use of organic and recycled cotton and most recently sustainable laundries with its Kings of Laundries program.
Continuing where K.O.I. left off last year, Tony has now launched his second edition of his RRR (Recycle, Re-use, Repair) pop-up store in Amsterdam. For 2013, Tony has tapped the good folks at Raw Materials to host a store-within-store space to help communicate his sustainable concept. The Raw Materials store is one of Amsterdam’s most-loved homeware stores, stocking a wide variety of unusual furnitures, interior accessories and decorations. Like K.O.I., the owners of Raw Materials pride themselves on craftsmanship, passion and classic design. And what’s more, both brands share the same sustainable credentials, preferring to work with natural and/or recycled materials. As you can see from the images the rustic and industrial interior of the store plays the perfect backdrop to the selection of denims on offer.
Like last years store, the main focus of the pop-up is to promote K.O.I.’s RRR concept. The program comes alive with an in-house denim technician (Lennaert Nijgh of K.O.I. and Banzak Denim Developers) to repair your broken jeans and recycling bin to donate your old wears. To increase awareness, K.O.I. are also rewarding donations with a €20 discount on a fresh new K.O.I. purchase.
The temporary space at the Raw Materials store will be open through May 12, 2013, so head over there quickly if you are in or looking to travel to Amsterdam in the coming weeks.
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J Brand’s Neon & Pastel Colored Denim Summer Styles
J Brand‘s latest releases include pastel and neon colored jeans, as well as medium-wash blue jean shorts and destroyed white denim cut-offs. The combination of colors and textures add up to equal fresh summer style! Their denim legging capris come in hot pink and lemon yellow, featuring a side zip. The subdued light wash skinny jean is a summer basic that translates from work to leisure with ease. Finally, their cut-off shorts are fun and versatile. The only problem with this collection will be selecting which pieces to buy!
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Now You Can Shop Victoria Beckham Denim Online
Yes, it’s true. Victoria Beckham‘s e-shop is now up and running, so you can shop her denim collection and more. While not expansive, the site offers several go-to skinny jeans and some couture-friendly denim and knit pieces that are better than the average fashion mashups.
And, if you’re looking for a bargain, The Outnet is having quite a sale on Victoria Beckham jeans right now. Take a look.
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Always attentive to innovations, the Brazilian brand Espaço Fashion has partnered with one of the largest producers of textiles in the world, Vicunha. The Brazilian company is a national leader in the production of indigo and denim. The alliance between the companies aims to create jeans with a super exclusive technology.
Some denim shorts highlight neon hues, besides tacks and spikes. As for the washed-out vest, it features fluorescent silicone stripes. These models were manufactured withthe Premium stretch indigo Marina Dark (10.3 oz), from Vicunha. Another function for the fabric is the possibility of achieving different hues in one piece, from a very dark portion to the clearest detail, giving an urban effect to the models.
see fashion side> 
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Winter 2014 promises lots of brilliance and sophistication. Major international brands bet on metalized fabrics to warm the coldest season of the year, such as the renowned designers Marc Jacobs and Vivienne Westwood, who have already submitted their upcoming collections, respectively, in the fashion weeks of New York and London.
Always attentive to the main trends of the fashion world, Vicunha, one of the largest producers of fabric in Latin America, has developed a broad line of metalized denims and twills.
The fabrics are made on an indigo base. Thus, it is possible to create numerous effects such as worn in the washing. The items are made with 45% of stretch, allowing the manufacture of comfortable tops and pants. The color chart is composed of five tones: Marilyn (silver), Paris (rose), Stella (blue), Tiffany (green) and Kelly (fendi – a greenish shade of beige).
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Is The Double Denim Trend Only Just Getting Started?
We’ve got to say, double denim (or the Canadian Tuxedo, if you will), is sort of a standard for us at this point. We don’t bat an eyelash if we’re strolling through Brooklyn and spot someone stylishly sporting this mono-denim combo. WWD says it’s only just getting revved up, though, and it may be that the two-toneddenim-on-denim trend is about to streamline into same-wash territory. Excited? Horrified? Either way, click through to see their slide show and figure out whether this trend progression is for you.
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August 19, 2013, Las Vegas Convention Center, Las Vegas, NV
An Official Session of Sourcing at MAGIC, North America's Largest Sourcing Event
An Official Session of Sourcing at MAGIC, North America's Largest Sourcing Event
7th annual Sourcing Summit, an official program of Sourcing at MAGIC, which runs August 18-21, in conjunction with MAGIC Market Week, August 19-21. At Sourcing at MAGIC, manufacturers and component suppliers have the unique opportunity to connect with thousands of sourcing executives, designers, wholesalers, private label buyers and the top U.S. multi-unit retailers. An event featuring everything from apparel and footwear manufacturers, to fiber and fabric, to trims, to supply chain service providers, it showcases more than 1,100 resources from around the globe.
An expert analysis of sourcing, technology and supply chain best practices with executive insights from Apparel's annual Excellence in Global Sourcing Study, conducted in partnership with leading consulting firm Kurt Salmon.
A panel discussion with leading apparel and retail sourcing executives and industry experts on Mastering Technology to Create Tomorrow’s World Class Supply Chain.
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Raleigh Denim Introduces Two New High-Rise Styles For Women
Raleigh Denim is the hot topic of conversation in the denim industry, fresh off the launch of their firstdowntown NYC denim boutique and a gorgeous spring 2013 presentation. While the buzz of having an in-house ferris wheel and insane interior architecture is keeping them on the tongues of every denim-lover in town, there’s also a matter of amazing new styles we can’t wait to get our hands on. A spectrum of dark-wash high waisted jeans and jean shorts for women are imminent. Some styles are softer and more romantic, while others are as crisp as can be.
see RALEIGH JEANS side> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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G-Star Global Women’s Night Coming To NYC November 29th
G-Star’s Women’s Night is taking the world by storm as every woman needs that perfect pair of jeans in her wardrobe. On November 29th, G-Star is showcasing Global Women’s Night where women can go to find that perfect slim fit jean. Enjoy styling advice and drinks while G-Star’s denim experts help you find your style in one of five slim fits in multiple denim fabrics and washes. Select from the 3301 Contour, Lynn, Midge, Radar High Waist and Arc. You’ll find a pair that fits perfectly and makes you look great.
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ACTOR MICKEY ROURKE SHOPS WITH ROBIN CHRETIEN
One of our favorite movie stars, Oscar-nominated Mickey Rourke, stopped by the Robin’s Jean Beverly Hills Store to do some shopping with owner and founder, Robin Chretien over the weekend. CLICK ME HERE
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New Denim Brand : STROM
Please click web side for more information
see STROM BRAND>
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Levi’s Vintage Clothing Presents the Miner at Unionmade
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At the end of March, Levi’s Vintage Clothing hosted a launch party to celebrate their S/S 13 Miner collection at Unionmade in San Francisco. For the evening, LVC invited the Levi’s Archive Team to share some of the exceptionally special turn-of-the-century Levi’s garments that inspired this Spring offering.
Over the first quarter of 2013, the Levi’s Vintage Clothing team has already been showcasing their Spring/Summer 13 collection throughout the States and Europe. So far, their Hotrod collection has toured Las Vegas, New York, London, Amsterdam and Berlin, with more stops scheduled in Japan.
To celebrate the second story of the season, The Miner, Creative Director, Miles Johnson and his team tapped San Fran menswear boutique, Unionmade to host the launch of the capsule collection, which the store has in its entirety (except for a few pieces that had already sold out!). Windows and mannequins were dressed in LVC pieces (including the miner’s beautiful 1870s triple-pleat gingham blouse, and the miner’s daughter’sbib dress) that were inspired by the workers of the late 18th century, whom Levi’s product was original made for.
The main event was a special presentation of archival pieces that inspired the collection. Stacia from the Archive Team brought over six pieces that were on display, including the Baryard jeans, two closed front jumpers (duck and denim), and the LS&Co shirt that inspired pieces from the women’s collection. To keep the event as authentic as possible, Anchor Brewing’s California Lager was served, as it is a revived style of beer that was first brewed in the Sierra Nevadas by unsuccessful Miners in the 1870s.
As expected, some of San Fran’s most sharply-dressed guys and girls were in attendance among the bustling crowd of over 100 people — most notably, Len Peltier, Levi’s Creative Director, and a dapper gent dressed in the infamous Bing Crosby denim tuxedo jacket.
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Butcher of Blue: Book Presentation & Exhibition
G-Star RAW Presents: The Unlimited Possibilities of Styling
Dutch denim powerhouse, G-Star teams up with fashion
bloggers from across the globe to explore the diverse styling
possibilites of their iconic Elwood Jean.
The past few seasons has seen a growing number of global brands reaching out to bloggers and young creative talents to collaborate on collections, campaigns and marketing projects in an effort to realize and add authenticity to their outputs. Levi’s recently collaborated with denim experts and the fashion community with a digital photo gallery dedicated to the many ways in which people around the world style their 501 jean. Meanwhile, H&M tapped international style blogger Susie Bubble to curate her own area in store as well as style the windows for the relaunch of their Regent store.
For S/S 13, G-Star take a unique approach by teaming up with the international fashion blogging community to explore their personal styling interpretations. To get a rounded and diverse selection, G-Star connected with various personalities from Cape Town, Tokyo, Amsterdam, London, Berlin, and more to capture portraits featuring the G-Star Elwood styled entirely by them. Each of the portraits reflects an aesthetic that is signature to the cities with both the guys and girls adding their own personal perspective to the classic G-Star fit. Featured in the project are blogs like Walter D’Aprile of Italy, L.A.’s Street Peeper and London’s 5inchandup. To accompany the campaign, a short video has been released featuring New York’s prolific fashion blogging duo, Jushua and Travis from Street Etiquette.
The past few seasons has seen a growing number of global brands reaching out to bloggers and young creative talents to collaborate on collections, campaigns and marketing projects in an effort to realize and add authenticity to their outputs. Levi’s recently collaborated with denim experts and the fashion community with a digital photo gallery dedicated to the many ways in which people around the world style their 501 jean. Meanwhile, H&M tapped international style blogger Susie Bubble to curate her own area in store as well as style the windows for the relaunch of their Regent store.
For S/S 13, G-Star take a unique approach by teaming up with the international fashion blogging community to explore their personal styling interpretations. To get a rounded and diverse selection, G-Star connected with various personalities from Cape Town, Tokyo, Amsterdam, London, Berlin, and more to capture portraits featuring the G-Star Elwood styled entirely by them. Each of the portraits reflects an aesthetic that is signature to the cities with both the guys and girls adding their own personal perspective to the classic G-Star fit. Featured in the project are blogs like Walter D’Aprile of Italy, L.A.’s Street Peeper and London’s 5inchandup. To accompany the campaign, a short video has been released featuring New York’s prolific fashion blogging duo, Jushua and Travis from Street Etiquette.
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August 19, 2013, Las Vegas Convention Center, Las Vegas, NV
An Official Session of Sourcing at MAGIC, North America's Largest Sourcing Event
An Official Session of Sourcing at MAGIC, North America's Largest Sourcing Event
An expert analysis of sourcing, technology and supply chain best practices with executive insights from Apparel's annual Excellence in Global Sourcing Study, conducted in partnership with leading consulting firm Kurt Salmon.
A panel discussion with leading apparel and retail sourcing executives and industry experts on Mastering Technology to Create Tomorrow’s World Class Supply Chain.
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American Eagle Announces Senior-level Leadership Changes
American Eagle Outfitters, Inc. appointed Kitty Yung to executive vice president/president of Asia Pacific and Simon Nankervis has been promoted to senior vice president, Americas and global country licensing.---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bloomingdale's Rolls Out Me-Ality Sizing Stations in 5 Stores
Me-Ality will now recommend denim styles sold at Bloomingdale's both in-store and online, including J Brand, 7 For All Mankind, True Religion, Hudson, and Citizens of Humanity among others. This will be the first partnership bringing the Me-Ality experience to the department store environment.
"We are excited to offer Me-Ality sizing stations in five of our Bloomingdale's stores," says Anne Bridges, senior vice president, omnichannel technology & customer experience of Bloomingdale's. "We are committed to exploring fit technology, and we view this partnership as an opportunity to enhance our customers' in store shopping experience."
Me-Ality takes the guesswork and hassle out of trying on clothes. Once scanned, customers receive a personalized shopping guide to help make more informed shopping decisions for their size and shape, as well as an online profile which acts as a virtual fit advisor, giving the consumer confidence to purchase their best-fit styles across the company's array of brands online.
Sixty-two percent of women who shop cannot find clothes that fit. More than $45 billion dollars of clothing is returned to stores every year due to poor fit. Me-Ality addresses this problem; the company has already provided more than 20 million personalized shopping recommendations to customers nationwide, each catered to best fit the customers' unique body type.
